I have an older GS/3 and about two months ago, I did a lot of updates to the machine in order to bring it 'up to date'. One of the things I did was replace the original OPV...the one with the little rubber tube around it....with the newer style. The newer style is capped off with a silicone tube running into the drain box. This way, if it overflows again, it will empty into the drain instead of the brain.

Anyways, when installing the OPV, I couldn't get it to line up vertically because of how things fit and sealed. Two or three months later, and now the new OPV is not sealing properly and leaking steam out into the drain box. I would say that I installed the OPV on about a 60 or 45 degree or so angle.

My question is do you really have to install it vertically or can it be on a bit of an angle? Also, what have others used to seal the threads?

Thanks

You should use Teflon tape to secure those threads. It's supposed to be upright at least that what I see in mine and I've seen in others. It is imperative that you address the problem quickly to avoid puddling water and possible water reaching the brain box.

Hi there,

I think you're referring to the steam boiler vacuum breaker, not the OPV (which sits in the silver canister/catch can, mid-machine).

Peppersass has an excellent tutorial of installation which shows good picturtes the angle he achieved:
Updating the La Marzocco GS/3 vacuum breaker

I've done this install myself, and later on--like you--had the valve become stuck open. I removed it, disassembled, and cleaned/rebuilt with a new seal as was done here:
La Marzocco GS3 vacuum breaker cleaning?

All was good again. A satisfying and inexpensive fix--but yes, I would make efforts to get the valve as vertical as possible.

Are you treating your water?

ChromePeacock: Thanks for the link. You were right, it's the breaker valve and not the OPV. I get the two confused if I don't work on it for awhile.

The peppersass tutorial looks like it will work out just fine. I have to go through it again though when I have more time later.

I am treating my water. I have a whole house filter that goes into a whole house water softener which then goes into Chris' Coffee's softener and filter combo sump. I am thinking about switching to a 5 gallon jug water because I'm getting really tired of dealing with these issues. I'm not sure if its the water or something else, but I don't know how much softer I can make it since it goes through two softeners.

Also, contraflow, I used teflon tape at first. I read some things about teflon tape and Loctite's thread sealer and I go back and forth on it. I'm glad to see that (hopefully) I used the right stuff.

Actually, thank you very much for that post. Reading through it, it was exactly the issues I was having with the struts/bars getting in the way of screwing everything together. It looks like there's a bunch of hints and tricks in order to get it in there properly. When I'm feeling better, I'm going to have to go through with this again...

Thanks!

Since the vacuum breaker valve opens by gravity feed when the boiler cools off and the pressure drops to zero, you want the valve as vertical as possible.

Frankly, while the new design is a godsend from the perspective of protecting the machine, it has confused and frustrated me every time I've attempted to clean, rebuild or replace it.

First, it's hard to get it in place with the strut in the way.

Second, sometimes when you screw the elbow fitting on tight the valve ends up not being vertical.

Third, sometimes when you screw the valve tightly to the elbow, the outlet ends up pointing in a direction that won't accommodate the tube without kinking the tube (and making it useless.)

I have an assortment of elbows and valves here (I think at least three of each), and I usually spend a half hour or so mixing and matching, inserting copper washers and using Teflon tape to get the parts to fit correctly. There seems to be quite a variation in the machining of the threads for these parts.

One of these days I'm going to call LM USA and ask them how they do it!

I've made the upgrade a few months ago and wanted to report back. Has anybody else had any issues with this new valve? It seems like it gets stuck more frequently than the old one and it also seems to discolor a lot. I'm not sure if the discolor has something to do with it getting stuck open or not. It seems like it's less scale and more black powder that the problem is. Either way, it cleans up OK with scaleklean, but I'm not sure what it is.

On average, it seems like I have to clean it at least once a month, which is kind of a PITA. The other one would last a few months before it needed a cleaning. I'm not sure if I just see it needs cleaning now because it steams the outside up or if it really is different.

Just seeing what other people have thought of the new valve. It's a lot better than the old on because it drains in the box, but I still have problems with it not closing all the way.

If you are having to remove & clean your vacuum valve every month you should think about testing the water that you are putting in the machine. Ever 6-12 months would be normal & some folks go much longer.

The GS3 valve fits fine in the Speedster.

JohnB. wrote:If you are having to remove & clean your vacuum valve every month you should think about testing the water that you are putting in the machine. Ever 6-12 months would be normal & some folks go much longer.

The GS3 valve fits fine in the Speedster.

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I like those valves (anti-vac valve I believe) and have put them on my Londinium machine (L-I) and will probably put it on the L-1P. It is sitting in a draw right now waiting for my motivation to increase

I've never cleaned mine and it has been at least a year. It has sputtered once in the last few weeks but then stopped. My guess is it will need to be cleaned sometime soon - but it isn't something urgent as any water just heads to the drain.

I used a range of copper washers as shims to ensure everything alogns well.

Overall it works well and is a big improvement over the previous design.