networkcrasher wrote:As I'm outboarding my pump, I can't really try this anymore, but has anyone considered wrapping the short tube between the pump and mixing valve with some type of insulation? Maybe neoprene or the like?

I've been considering that.

Since I altered the position of the mixing block end of the tube, I'm getting periodic heavy vibrations. I'm in the process of trying to find a position for the pump and L-joint that eliminate vibration, but it isn't easy. I'll find a good position, then after I get the machine back together and run it for a while, the tube migrates and the vibration starts again. This reinforces Ken's observation that there's a very limited range of positions for the pump and L-connector that eliminate the vibration altogether (as was the case when my machine was new.)

I think a neoprene wrap might work and I believe it would be adequate temperature-wise. At Jetboil (shameless plug), we use neoprene to insulate the aluminum cup, which can contain vigorously boiling water.

I think the easiest solution, until proven otherwise, would be to obtain an after market braided SS hose with the same connectors as on the supplied hose, but one that is a couple of cm (~an inch) or so longer. Some kind of damping material around it that can tolerate high temps would be icing on the cake.

At some point I'll probably do that tiny modification, but at the moment I don't have a lot of noise so I have no rush to do it.

ken

Ken,
I worked on my machine for a while this weekend and ordered the Dynamat.
First I put a plastic tie around the braded hose and attached it to the frame forward so that the hose would not contact the boiler when the pump is activated. Then I attached another tie to where the hose enters the pump and attached it to the frame towards the back so that when the pump is activated the hose is not able to pull the pump forward. The vast majority of my vibration is gone, and I bet the Dynamat will take care of it. I think a better solution will be to have a longer length of hose. I'm going to check with my vendor. I'll post a pic if you want. Rob

rbh1515 wrote:Ken,
I worked on my machine for a while this weekend and ordered the Dynamat.
First I put a plastic tie around the braded hose and attached it to the frame forward so that the hose would not contact the boiler when the pump is activated. Then I attached another tie to where the hose enters the pump and attached it to the frame towards the back so that when the pump is activated the hose is not able to pull the pump forward. The vast majority of my vibration is gone, and I bet the Dynamat will take care of it. I think a better solution will be to have a longer length of hose. I'm going to check with my vendor. I'll post a pic if you want. Rob

Hi Rob,

I'm in Boise, where I'm overnighting before I take 4 flights to get to France, where I'll spend the next month. I won't be able to do anything to my machine for a month, but I'd sure like to see your photos if you would post them.

Thanks,

ken
p.s. my experience using plastic ties in areas exposed to sun or heat has not been very good. They become brittle and break. You might want to try metal wire instead.

Hi guys,

my experience using plastic ties in areas exposed to sun or heat has not been very good. They become brittle and break. You might want to try metal wire instead.

Just buy proper nylon flame retardant ties which can take up to 85*C (you can also get UV resistant ones).

Regards,
dsc.

The plastic ties are just a temporary solution. My vendor is looking into a longer braided hose or possible a fitting that would slightly elongate it.
Rob

Does anybody have leftover Dynamat they would like to sell.... Seems like a waste to purchase a relatively large piece for such a small job(s). Please PM me.

Here are pics of the plastic ties that keep the braided hose (outlet from pump) away from the front of the boiler. Also added the tie from the origin of this hose to the back of the frame so that the force from the hose doesn't pull the pump forward. These two ties and some dynamat have eliminated most of the rattling, but I consider the ties temporary. I'm wondering if a longer hose would be the best fix. Am curious if anyone with a very quiet machine would look at their machine to see if when you start the brew pump, does the hose tighten up and go up against the boiler??
Rob

Here are the things to check. Most have been recorded above.

1. Remove any shims that may have been installed under the pump

2. Remove the 2 t-nuts shown in picture above. Lubricate t-nut with super lube or equivalent. Install until contact is made, then 1/2 turn more. You should be able to physically move the pump side to side and see the t-nuts moving.

3. Check the braided hose that goes from the pump to the inlet manifold. This hose has been lengthened in newer models by 1.5 inches. When pressurized the hose constricts and touches some part of the frame. Also when the hose constricts it pulls the pump into the steam valve tube and makes contact.

4. Rotate pump so it touching nothing. Sometimes it is not possible due to hose length (hence plastic wire ties).

5. If it still vibrates, remove the pump and lubricate the joint between the motor and pump. Also ensure a easy fit between the 2 parts.

6. Open the tool box and find the biggest hammer you can possibly lift...... no just kidding.


Most all vibration problems have been solved using the above methods. If the hose is still the culprit then you may need to find a longer one. Let me know if this is the case for anyone and I will try to get some from LM for this group at some reduced cost.

Bill

Billc wrote:If the hose is still the culprit then you may need to find a longer one. Let me know if this is the case for anyone and I will try to get some from LM for this group at some reduced cost.

Bill -- I'm using cable ties to keep the hose off the boiler and frame, and to keep the pump from lurching forward. But I'd much prefer to have a longer hose. Please count me in for any group buy.