Ok, I've had my GS/3 for almost 6 years and recently bragged about almost no maintenance in this forum. Few weeks later there was a hissing sound some time from steamer

Going with the assumption that it was the vacuum breaker, I exchanged that (easily), but to no avail. It seems that it is the high pressure valve, that hisses. On my (early) GS/3 it is located at the right side of the boiler with an enclosure around it:



My question is: How to replace it? Do I have to get a special deep socket wrench? Or must I remove the enclosure (which seem to imply that I remove the rightmost top bracket, which is attached to (holds?) the boilers? The enclosure is "loose" but not detachable because of the bracket?

It seems easy enough to replace, given the right tool/method. Is it? (My GS/3 mechanic level until now is: Renovating steam valve, replacing steamer with hot version (HUGE improvement btw) and replacing vacuum breaker; dismantling machine down to removing front and back panel).

Yours is very different than mine. Yours is oriented sideways. Mine is upright, and is enclosed in a housing with a hose attached so that if the valve ever fails, the water will not go all over the inside of the machine and ruin the brainbox. See: http://www.lamarzoccousa.com/wp-content ... 3COLOR.pdf (see p 33 of the parts catalog)
I would recommend seeing if you can reconfigure yours so that if the valve fails it does not ruin your machine.
Rob

Hi Kim,
Interesting valve configuration. I can say that Astoria recommends replacing the safety valve every 3 years. So 6 years of service is admirable. To remove that valve, I would use what is called a "crowsfoot" wrench. It resembles the end of an open end wrench, with a square opening in the shank for a socket extension. It looks like this:



I will leave advice about redesigning the machine to others. Hope this helps. Cheers

Tnx Rob, but I'm not in for a bigger modification right now, just want to stop the (slight) hissing.

There must be a "right" way of replacing the valve (and/or right tools), and that's what I'm asking for.

Dave, interesting tool

No problem...just realize that if the valve ever fails, you could have water all over the inside of your machine. On my machine I replaced the vacuum valve with the new version that will not cause a major leak. It was a very easy fix. I'm sure that changing out your OPV should be pretty easy, you may just have to take some things apart to get to it.
Rob

Hey Kim,
It's hard to see the safety valve clearly from this angle, but is it possible to slip a deep socket over the valve or is the endcap a larger diameter than the wrenching flats? Every manufacturer seems to have their own design when it comes to boiler safety valves so I can't recall offhand what size yours is, but if you can slip a socket over yours, it might save a trip to the tool store to buy a set of crowfoot wrenches. Good luck

You need a deep socket. I do not remember the size offhand, but a standard metric deep socket will do the trick.
Be sure you have a new copper washer with the new valve.
My machine is SN 1700 so I have the updated valve catch can. As someone else mentioned, you will have a mess if it should open, but I don't believe many have mentioned that happening. When I first got my machine there was a blockage that kept a solenoid open so my steam boiler overfilled and did cause the over pressure valve to open. The water should have all drained into the drain box but my catch can had a small pinhole. LM took care of everything. So perhaps you should consider moving the valve. I believe all it requires is adding a fitting it move the valve between the two boilers and then routing a silicone hose to the drain, maybe with a t-fitting to the drain box. I'm pretty sure someone else has posted about doing this.
Good luck.

Tnx for commenting. I know about the risk, but as I mostly am home when the machine turns on (and is on) I render the risk as little. I might consider modifying it at some time, but not right now.

I'm pretty sure there is room for a deep socket, and I have a colleague which might lend me one Monday (and a normal wrench too, but I'm unsure if that'll fit). I'll keep you posted.

Derek, do you see a problem removing the top bracket, if other options fail? Tnx for the tip about the washer! My machine is in the 130thies

Kim, I cannot remember the bracket configuration. I know some bits are welded and some are bolted together. I'm sure unbolting some to gain access is no problem. I have done this on mine to access the steam boiler drain valve.
The deep socket will work; that is what I used to replace mine. Pay attention to where the copper washer sits and put it back there!!

A deep 24mm socket works Now I'll go order a new valve