hi mike

hx - lucky you have a cimbali with burst hx. They're just about the only ones that are easily replaceable. It probably burst after the water inside froze.

frame - needs sandblasting or similar before coating. My powdercoaters do this for a small fee.

electronics - should have been tested before machine came apart. They are generally reliable and as you have found machine to be inoperable due to burst hx, it is a safe bet to say that machine was decommissioned due to this and not faulty electronics.

I have had a few old cimbali's in my workshop this year in similar condition. Tricky machines as they are so complex but take lots of photos and you'll be fine.

good luck.

Is money a critical issue?

I've done about 1/2 dozen rebuilds and I think it will be hard to do this one for under $1000. It may not be too much more than $1000 but just the HX repair, powdercoating and leg repair will probably be near $500. There are a number of incidentals like wire, connectors, nuts & bolts, heat shrink tubing, zip ties, assembly lube, spray paint, sandpaper, descaling solution and such that you'll use up before you start accounting for all of the standard consumables in a machine.

Things I anticipate you will need for sure:
- pressurestat (these are usually pretty tired) $90
- safety valve (good insurance) $20
- boiler gasket $25
- steam/water wand gaskets/o-rings/springs/washers $30
- grouphead parts (including some spares) $30
- crushable washers (qty. 15) $15
- sight glass & rebuild kit $20

Prices are from well-known online sources. There are other ways to get parts that might change the cost one way or the other.

There is a decent potential list of other items that you could need that would really spike the cost. We are all pulling for you not to have a problem but a dosing pad, flowmeter, ribbon cable, electronic brain, pump head or even a random copper pipe in some indescribable shape with some oddball end brazed on that you have to fabricate or engineer around is not out of the realm of possibility.

You will end up with a machine that should have a market value guess of $1500 and a pretty good education in how espresso machines work.

That is a long distance attempt at costing after one beer. Not powdercoating is probably the single biggest cost reduction that I could foresee. A wire brush and some rattle cans would be the alternative.

WES

Worked some more on the machine last night and was bathing all the tubes in a citric bath. They turned out quite nicely - will post pics when I have them shined up with 0000 steel wool. I ran into a problem though and hope someone could help.

The threads are stripped a bit on the piece where the arrow is pointing - some threads are still there but the threads closest to the end of the piece are effected. The nut on the piece it joins to seems fine. Is there anyway to make this joint tight without having to buy a new piece?

short of replacing the piece; try using suitable liquid thread lock. A bit last ditch effort.

Wes and Paul thanks for the replys.

I was going through more of the parts based on Wes' suggestion and specifically was looking at the pstat. It shows some rust and calcification so I agree with Wes and will be looking to replace it. Now I really don't want to pay the exorbitant price tag for a Cimbali pstat and wondered if anyone could suggest another brand. I was also reading the pstat thread here and it seems that this can be done. I just don't want to make a mistake and buy the wrong one.

Thanks

you could PID it, or if you want to stay w. a p-stat and want it to last for years go with a sirai

Ilya,

Thanks for the recommendation re the Sirai. Would I have to modify it? or just attach and go?

Regarding PID. I haven't done much reading on PIDing so if there is a good thread or page that describes the process I would love to read more.

Thanks again.

should be able to just attach it and go

this should work:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SIRAI-Pressurestat- ... 20ad259efe

PID has some benefits - more precise temp control, longer heating element life and no annoying clicking when it turns on (when you use it with a SSR)

Pull that circuit board and get me some good close up shots of both sides of the board. If it has died it should not be to bad to rebuild it, and much cheaper than a full replacement.

Have you pulled the pump off the motor and checked it out? If it is frozen up or stiff you need to see about getting it off for a rebuild. You will also need to look at the motor, if the pump seal has leaked you could have a shot front bearing on the motor, if the shaft spins easily by hand you most likely are good there.

You will most likely need to tear into both of the flow meters, they tend to bind up and not read correctly when left to sit for too long. The case is held together with the screws on the top, once you get it open descale it like any other part, just try not to soak the terminals and ground wire. When cleaned the plastic blade should spin without resistance on the needle bearing.

Looks like the HX rupture will be the biggest problem, and you should consider replacing the other one if it is deformed as you said.

Good start!

-Cecil

godlyone wrote:should be able to just attach it and go

this should work:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SIRAI-Pressurestat- ... 20ad259efe

PID has some benefits - more precise temp control, longer heating element life and no annoying clicking when it turns on (when you use it with a SSR)

Ilya,

Thanks for the link to this pstat. I purchased it yesterday for $60 inc. s/h. Which seems to be a very good deal. It totally amazes me that Cimbali (Cafe Parts) wants $240 for their pstat they take off 50% by selling you a used / reconditioned unit. And from the comments I have read, Sirai is about the only way to go if you can fit it in your machine

Mike