Thanks for your reply, Ira.
In M15 configuration the heating element is on the left wall.
And I think this location wouldn't work, because it is to high - already (at least partially) in the "steam area".

The triangular side cover is for a magnetic water level sensor, I've seen one posted on eBay for about $70, but decided not to get it since the water level indicator works fine for that purpose. The one on the bottom could be used for a drain plug, the other smaller one on the upper left is unknown to me at the moment, it might be used in a different configuration. I think some of the other M15s like in the German post have a different side panel than ours, they may or may not have the same configuration.

I'm extremely impressed with your results using WD-40, I used Balistol on my gasket, but it didn't seem to soften the material like with yours. Excellent job with your experiment!

Additional water level sensor together with electro-valve sound interesting

About the gasket vs. WD40 - the gasket is not softer at all after using WD40. The agent just separated it from metal initially (as I wrote - the string helped to apply a force precisely). WD40 is totally useless when the gasket is already delaminated, which I personally checked when I removed the group and destroyed the outer gasket.
The only thing which is needed is time, so the experiment was a bit an effect of coincidence: I applied WD40 and focused on something else. Then when I used WD40 again in other place - I came back to the HX and applied a bit more... and the same few times. Then I focused on the HX again... and was disappointed how easy it went
I'll tell you more - the internal gasket (the one between the 3 bolts support and the boiler inner surface) already separated a bit without external force. I don't want to push it all the way inside the boiler before opening side walls, so it is now hanging on bolts and keeping to enjoy the WD40 lotion

Few pictures more.

Heating element:


Three bolts support:


Three bolts support with gasket:


Boiler inside (bolts support area):


Boiler inside:


Right boiler wall with gasket:


I guess that all M15 users know that, but for me it was new: only the left boiler's wall is mounted with additional aluminum ring. The left one is mounted directly with screws.

I've been following this thread and think it's amazing that you're attempting this! I just have to ask...are there any safety issues since there are high (ish?) pressures involved and hot water and stuff? Also the chemicals from the cleaners? Just want you to be safe!

Well, as with everything - you need to be careful.
Pressure in the boiler is not that high... and in case of pressurestat failure there's always a safety valve. The pressure when brewing is few times higher, but the flow rate is not that big, and it has nothing to do with the bigger volume of water in the boiler. Nothing that could be a roadblock. All joints are rather durable.
Chemistry? I didn't use anything special so far. And for descaling - I guess that regular citric acid will be all I need.
The biggest concern was about "the nature" that started to develop inside of this machine. 20 yo water in the boiler and pipes. Strange spiders inside the housing...
And electricity! Yes, this is what I think I'll need to focus on.

I'd say that, in terms of safety, espresso machine restoration is nothing when you compare to old motorcycle restoration. Espresso machine is way slower, and it's not between your legs (usually)

Ok, thanks and hear you in about two weeks - I have to take a break.

I've been in the process of moving into the house I've been refurbishing for the last 8 months so time continues to be somewhat tight. I think I might have asked this before, but I was wondering if you're converting your machine from the 380v element to the 220v element? I also wanted you to make a quick comparison between your element and the one that was in my machine, there is definitely a bend in mine which offers a little bit more protection in case your water level drops a bit too low. Like I said before, TSE didn't have the correct 220v element when I originally placed my order but they do now.

Can you post a picture (top view) of your portafilter? I ordered an extra portafilter from TSE, unfortunately the one I purchased (and was listed for the M15) isn't the correct one. If my extra portafilter fits your machine I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping (if you want it) since I would rather have someone use it than have it sit here unused. The portafilters from my LaCimbali Junior models fit into my M15, this is probably the same with yours.

Hello again.

My M15 has a 230V, 2,7kW heating element. It works - no idea if works as new, but is able to reach proper temperature after few minutes. I was considering to change it to lower kW version, as I'm going to insulate the boiler... just to keep the electric line less loaded. But as I said - it seems to be ok, so I'll probably keep the current one.
Yes, your heater looks totally different. Not only the bend that makes it a bit lower, but also the point where the longer tube turns back is different. To be honest - my heater looks a bit like it was home made. I mean the lack of parallelism between tubes Anyway I saw this shape few times in other machines, so it is probably just ugly by design
And another point - you have additional part that covers electrical contacts outside.

Here's a top view of my PF:


As far as I could define that basing on pictures of your group from your topic, it should fit. What is wrong with the one that you purchased recently? Can you post a pic? Maybe it is a version for hydraulic head? These have one "ear" wider just to use it as brewing process activator.

Thanks for the offer... indeed I'd need another PF, cause I received only one with the machine, but I'm afraid that shipping cost to Poland could be to big. Thanks, it's really nice.

(Short OT: I received just one PF with my M15, but... there was a Carimali GT commercial grinder attached, that also needs some attention, because of few cosmetic issues... so I'm restoring two machines in parallel now. The grinder is really a monster - three times bigger than my Iberital, that I was already considering as big. Carimali is heavy as hell, but totally silent. When I started it first time I was sure that it was broken - there was no noise. I just noticed visually after few seconds that it is rotating inside. Iberital is smaller, but terribly loud).

These are the two portafilters side by side. The one that I can't use is the one on top, I think it's the one you were talking about with the extended tab for the actuator on the hydraulic M15. I'll have to try to contact one of the other M15 guys to see if they're interested in it since neither one of us has any use for it. Bummer.



Yes indeed I do have the Bakelite cover on my boiler which covers the electrical contacts, there was also another Bakelite cover that goes over the contacts for the rotary switch on the bottom front of my machine too! One other unique feature that my machine came with is the over pressure valve (OPV), it's not the spring loaded version found on more modern espresso machines. This design is basically a tube screwed into the bung on the boiler. The tube has a little brass cap, a little hat goes over that little brass cap and on that little hat fits a lead weight that keeps the little cap on the tube. When the boiler pressure becomes too great it just upsets the little cap just enough to let the excess pressure out. I have absolutely no idea as to the accuracy of this system, I might keep it or upgrade to the modern spring style OPV. I like the old system for now, I'll see how it works once the machine is up and running. I will probably just hiss all the time, but who knows?

Yes, the top PF is definitely the one used in "hydromatic" version.
I don't know the shipping cost, but if it wasn't high, maybe it make sense just to exchange it for correct one?

One other unique feature that my machine came with is the over pressure valve (OPV)

Do you mean this one?


I love it... especially that in my case it lets just a bit of steam to escape sometimes. Simple and works.