Is there an ideal setting for the pressurestat when viewing the front gauge on the Junior? I thought I read that around 1 bar or less is ideal which is why I dialed it down. The boiler fill probe is down in the boiler as much as possible but I don't have the actual measurement of the probe - I just used it the way it came and adjusted it as far into the boiler as I could so I'd guess it's filling maybe 2/3 of the way up but that's as low as I could get it without trying to find a longer probe. The occlusion, well I'm not sure how to even go about checking for that other than eliminating the other possibilities. Thanks again for any help.

Spresso_Bean wrote:Is there an ideal setting for the pressurestat when viewing the front gauge on the Junior? I thought I read that around 1 bar or less is ideal which is why I dialed it down. The boiler fill probe is down in the boiler as much as possible but I don't have the actual measurement of the probe - I just used it the way it came and adjusted it as far into the boiler as I could so I'd guess it's filling maybe 2/3 of the way up but that's as low as I could get it without trying to find a longer probe. The occlusion, well I'm not sure how to even go about checking for that other than eliminating the other possibilities. Thanks again for any help.

Assuming the FPG is accurate, a well functioning Sirai pstat membrane should have a "deadband" of approximately 0.15 to 0.2 bar; this is not user settable, but if more than 0.2 bar, one should think along the lines of replacing the membrane, an easy repair task. If one is making a lot of milk drinks, the upper part of the deadband could be as high as 1.2bar, but I would not go any higher than 1.25 bar as the quality of the straight shots will deteriorate or you will need to use very large flushes.

If you are making straight shots primarily, then you could set the upper part of the deadband as low as 1.0 bar, but you might want it a little higher if you are going to do any milk frothing.

The autofill probe can become coated with scale, which will cause the boiler to fill to a level higher than the lowest point of the probe, which is where the autofill SHOULD shut off. Using the sight glass level in my old vibe Junior as a guide, when I drain the boiler at the lowest acceptable level (as marked "Min" on the front panel adjacent to the sightglass), I get between 8 and 10 oz. of water through the water wand (do this just after turning the machine off; since yours is connected to the mains, turn off the water so that there is no water leakage past the input solenoid into the boiler which may obscure your measurement). At the mid point I will get about 16, maybe 18 oz. If you are getting more than about 18oz out the water wand when you do this, then your boiler is filling too high.

Note that this is NOT the total amount of water in the boiler at these fill levels; it is simply what will come out passively through the water wand, when the boiler is heated up and pressurized.

ken

Thanks for the insight, Ken. I feel like I still have a lot to learn with how some of the components work, but I appreciate the help. I love how easily the panels can be removed to access the internal parts, and it only took me a few minutes to adjust the Sirai and get it back together. It's great, and I'm trying to work with the adjustment and so far the steaming is noticeably better so that's a good sign.

I acquired a used Cimbali Junior over the weekend. Looks like you have gone through this process already, and I am hoping you can help. I have a water line hooked up, and everything seems to be functional (steam wand, hot water, auto fill, etc.). Two things I am wondering:

1. The boiler pressure continues to climb into the red zone. How do I adjust it?

2. I am only getting a steady stream of steam from the group head. I removed the screen and shower plate (?) and will replace those. So its just steam coming from the group head itself.

I am new to this, so technical terms will only confuse. I do not have a manual, so when you are referring to particular parts, a picture or description of location with help a lot!

Thanks for you help in advance. I cant wait to pull the perfect shot from this beauty!

jthiessen8 wrote:I am new to this, so technical terms will only confuse.

Have you considered having it professionally serviced? The problems you list can have multiple causes.

Thought about it. There is a servicing partner is town. But I would like to try my hand at it first.

jthiessen8 wrote:Thought about [getting professional service]. There is a servicing partner is town. But I would like to try my hand at it first.

Remember that water + heat + rising pressure = the potential for an explosion with serious, life-threatening implications. If you don't know what you're doing, get the professionals involved.

I agree with Richard, this is a used espresso machine with known problems. There may be other problems that you have yet to discover, some of which could compromise the machine's safety. Maintenance of used equipment is notoriously bad and the problems you cite do not inspire confidence. Have it professionally serviced, you will thank us later.

OK, i hear your message on the boiler issue. Perhaps I will consult the local servicer. Is this something you, yourself, would not undertake? Is this an unusual issue? I played with the pressurestat a bit to see if I could adjust it. I may dismantle the components to see if I can clean things up a bit.

On the group head, I was able to take it all apart and clean it. Turns out the solenoid on the side was clogged. Put it all back together, and now I have hot water flowing!

Next issue, the dosing chamber in the back (the clear plastic box with metal rods). I want to take it apart and clean it as there is a heavy buildup of black gunk. How do you suggest I take it apart? Also, as the hot water is dispensing from the group, should the water level in the dosing chamber fall? It seems like nothing is happening in there when the water is flowing.

Thanks.

jthiessen8 wrote:Is this something you, yourself, would not undertake? Is this an unusual issue?

Well, we're talking about you, not me. I've done home projects with elements of framing, plumbing, and electrical work, but I know where to draw the line. For example, I called a licensed electrician to add a new circuit breaker and an experienced iron pipe installer for adding a natural gas line extension; not because I couldn't figure it out how to do it myself, but because the risk of screwing up wasn't worth saving the one-time installation cost.

You said this Cimbali Junior is used with an unknown maintenance history and "I am new to this, so technical terms will only confuse." You may fix what's obviously wrong, but there could be hidden issues that only a seasoned repair technician would know to check. My advice is unchanged: Get it professionally serviced, top to bottom. From that point forward you can do your own maintenance if you desire.