Hi Everyone,

I'm new here but not totally new to coffee having been addicted for the past 15 years.
That said I'm far from being an expert.

In an attempt to find a solution for the problem I'm having with my La Cimbali Junior I have posted a similar request at CoffeeGeek (I hope this doesn't offend anyone). I'm going crazy looking to find a resolve for this.

Anyway I was hoping for some help if anyone is able to offer it.
A couple of days ago I bought a la Cimbali Junior D1 model from 2000.
It's in exceptional condition except when I plugged it in to use it after having plumbed it in, it won't heat up - nothing.
The orange light on the front panel doesn't illuminate and there is no heat.
I can pull a shot as the pump is working but the shot is of course cold.
I've tried pushing the over temp safety button but it hasn't done anything.
Also tried the front left knob in all positions to no avail.
Prior to me acquiring it the previous owners had it sitting in storage for two years.
Before then they said it was working fine.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
THANKS.

Hello:

Elliot Stew wrote:Hi Everyone,
A couple of days ago I bought a la Cimbali Junior D1 model from 2000.
---
The orange light on the front panel doesn't illuminate and there is no heat.

First of all, check the user's manual to see exactly how the beast works.
eg: the orange light does not indicate the heating element being on (at least on my ca. 2000 D1).

Find them here:
/downloads/ ... agrams.pdf
/downloads/ ... vicing.pdf

Then, if you have adequate electrical skills (and a multimeter) you should be able to open the side panel to check and see:

1. if the pressurestat is not stuck.
2. if not stuck, if the element is getting electrical current.
3. if it does, if the element is shorted.

If you do not have adequate electrical skills (and a multimeter), bear in mind that electricity and water can be a problem and it may be better to put the matter in the hands of someone with said skills.

Good luck.

CIV

Hi CIV,

Thanks for your reply!
The manuals were very helpful, thank you.

The manual suggests the orange light should illuminate when the machine is turned on and turn off again when ready to use.
My light is not coming on at all.

I did open up and take a look at the pressurestat and noticed that two parts seem burnt as if a short has happened inside.
I've attached a couple of images as reference (the far connection is burnt as is the nearest one which isn't visible).
Might this be the problem that is preventing the element from working?
If so is it possible to repair without replacing the parts and if not which parts do I need to replace? The entire pressurestat?

And any idea what might have caused this?
Especially given it's been sitting in storage unused.

Thanks again for your help.

Elliot Stew wrote:Hi CIV,

Thanks for your reply!
The manuals were very helpful, thank you.

The manual suggests the orange light should illuminate when the machine is turned on and turn off again when ready to use.
My light is not coming on at all.

I did open up and take a look at the pressurestat and noticed that two parts seem burnt as if a short has happened inside.
I've attached a couple of images as reference (the far connection is burnt as is the nearest one which isn't visible).
Might this be the problem that is preventing the element from working?
If so is it possible to repair without replacing the parts and if not which parts do I need to replace? The entire pressurestat?

And any idea what might have caused this?
Especially given it's been sitting in storage unused.

Thanks again for your help.

<image>

Not necessarily. If you have a multimeter or know someone who has one and is good with electronics it is easy to check out. If you are not comfortable and experienced with electrical I recommend you bring it to a nearby shop or competent tech with electric skills. As stated earlier one does not need to be killed by their espresso machine.

That out of the way, the black looks more like from the contactor opening and closing many times. Could it be affecting, a multimeter will tell you fast. Usually the diagphram cracks on the pressure stat before the contactor goes.

That internal part looks like this, http://www.espressocare.com/products/it ... nbrane-kit Looks to be the 30amp from the picture but can't confirm. This is not to say go get this part, this is more to show the insides of the pressurestat that can fail.

Proper and thorough safe troubleshooting will determine which part needs replacing. I do not recommend just ordering parts.

http://www.espresso-restorations.com/p-stats.html goes more into how the pressurestat works.

Hello:

Elliot Stew wrote: Thanks for your reply!

You're welcome.

Elliot Stew wrote: The manual suggests the orange light should illuminate when the machine is turned on and turn off again when ready to use.

Not necessarily.
Unless there is a Gicar box or wiring problem between the Gicar and the reservoir rods, that orange light signals that the water level in the reservoir (set with the rods as per the manual's instructions) is low. It turns off when the set level is reached. If the level is where you've set it, it will not turn on.

When you should see it turn on is after pulling a shot, as the Gicar box opens the valve to refill the reservoir.

Elliot Stew wrote: ... two parts seem burnt as if a short has happened inside.

This is not necessarily an indication of a problem.

Elliot Stew wrote: ... given it's been sitting in storage unused.

Well ...
It could be a given ...
Or not.
Same as to it's 'it was working fine' status.
I'd take it all with a grain of salt.

Not having seen it in person, I'd venture that your being able to pull a 'cold shot' means that the Gicar reservoir level controls, pump and valves 'seem' to be working OK.

Which leaves the mains -> pressurestat -> safety switch -> element circuit as a place to look for answers.

forbeskm wrote: If you are not comfortable and experienced with electrical I recommend you bring it to a nearby shop or competent tech with electric skills. As stated earlier one does not need to be killed by their espresso machine.
---
Proper and thorough safe troubleshooting will determine which part needs replacing. I do not recommend just ordering parts.

+1

Cheers,

CIV

Hi CIV,

Thanks again for your replies.
That makes sense re the light coming on to indicate water level - the water level seems to be at the correct height.

I did manage to get hold of a multimeter and tested the element. It's reading about 37 which given it's a 1300w / 240 volt element seems to be correct, indicating it's fine.

Not too sure how to test the other components, I agree I need to get it to an expert but it's holiday season over here in New Zealand and everybody has shut down for a couple of weeks and I'm impatient to get it working.

What does the safety switch look like and where is it in the machine?

I wondered if it could be related to the main switch http://coffeeparts.com.tmp.anchor.net.au/cimbali/700238
For some reason my switch won't proceed to the extreme right position, it goes as far as the middle position though it does have two positions before that (three positions in total).

Thanks again for all your help!

Hello:

Elliot Stew wrote: ... manage to get hold of a multimeter and tested the element.
... reading about 37 which given it's a 1300w / 240 volt element seems to be correct, indicating it's fine.

Are you sure it is 1300W?
Check the label under the tray.

The D1 has been manufactured with different value elements, from 1300W to 1800W.
Mine is a 1800W, yours looks like it is a 1600W (36 ohms).

Elliot Stew wrote: ... impatient to get it working. :lol:

It's understandable ...
But will get you nowhere.
Or in a fat mess, quickly enough.

Elliot Stew wrote: What does the safety switch look like and where is it in the machine?

Look at the parts manual, page 4.
It may have a different one than the OEM one.

Elliot Stew wrote: For some reason my switch won't proceed to the extreme right position ...

The reason is that, as far as I know, the original main switch has only two positions: 0 and 1 (Off and On).

forbeskm wrote: If you are not comfortable and experienced with electrical I recommend you bring it to a nearby shop or competent tech with electric skills. As stated earlier one does not need to be killed by their espresso machine.

I really don't want to sound condescending but this is the best advice you have received here at HB.
If you insist, at least read up on how to go about tracing a circuit with a multimeter.
And please, do it all with the machine unplugged.

Cheers,

CIV

Hi and thanks again.

Are you sure it is 1300W?
Check the label under the tray.

The machine is 1800W, the element has 1300W written on it.

The reason is that, as far as I know, the original main switch has only two positions: 0 and 1 (Off and On).

Perhaps my model is slightly different?
I have three positions (or at least three clicks) but doesn't go further right than the number '2' on the front....



Don't worry I won't get myself killed by electricity, I'm more likely to die of frustration.
Thanks again.

This is the info under the drip tray...