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Izzo Duetto lid fix.

Postby TomC on Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:31 pm

Simple (and hopefully not too stupid) question: How do I keep these black rubber pads from falling off the top of the machine? Every time I lift the cup warming tray/lid, to refill the reservoir, they sneakily end up sticking to the bottom of the lid, which I don't see when I set it down. Now I'm down to three of the pads, because one fell between my cabinets and my stove. I know they help keep the noise down by preventing metal to metal vibration and scratches in general, so I don't want them to keep disappearing.
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I don't want to mess anything up, and am thinking about in the future, if for some reason I need to take them off, I don't want to have to carve them off and risk scratching the stainless steel if I use a hard glue like superglue or Gorilla Glue. I had kicked around the idea of a bit of rubber cement....

Any other ideas? Anyone else encounter the same problem? I keep both the underside of the lid, and the rubber pads nice and clean. I just think heat causes them to stick to the underside of the cover.

Maybe I'm just paranoid about risking having glue residue migrate down the sides of the metal as the machine heats up.
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Postby CrayonShinchan on Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:55 pm

I've been thinking the same exact thing! How to keep these suckers on. Luckily, I haven't lost any.

I think the easiest solution is to plumb in :mrgreen:

I do plan on doing that soon, but in the interest of a solution, I think double-sided tape on the just one side of the frame would do the trick. Since these things are pretty pliable, you could just bend one side up while you stick it to the side with tape.

I guess there's a concern of the heat making the adhesive gooey, but won't know till you try. I would stick the tape to the outside of the frame.
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Postby TomC on Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:10 pm

That's what I was leaning towards...

I remember when I was a kid, and we put new rubber handlebar grips on our BMX bikes, we used dish soap to lubricate the inside, and slip them on the steel shaft, then let it dry in the hot desert afternoon. An hour or two later, that sucker was permanently adhered to the handlebar and wouldn't slip off. But a utility knife would take it off and leave no permanent glue residue.
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Postby LaDan on Tue Sep 13, 2011 12:24 pm

Ha! I was wondering about the same problem but reading your thread actually gave me 2 solutions.

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1. Use non-slip-pads. You know those pads you can buy at Bed Bath And Beyond for a few bucks, that you put underneath your cutting board, at the bottom of your kitchen drawers or cabinet. Buy one for your kitchen and cut four 2"x1" pieces off its side and keep the rest of the pad for your kitchen use.

Put/fold the little non-slip onto the Duetto's stainless steel and then open the original rubber pads and insert them over the non-slip. Done! I think that will hold them nicely.

2. Buy a piece of thick rubber tubing at your Home Depot type store. Cut to four 2" pieces. Slice the tube length-wise on one side. Insert onto the stainless steel in place of the original rubber pads. This one is a good solution for those who lost their rubber pads.

Actually, using PEX tubing is even better since they have shape memory under heat. So they will actually tighten up when getting hot. :)
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Postby TomC on Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:52 pm

I might look into PEX tubing. I've never heard of it. What's it used for generally?

I have that exact foam padding already. I used to use it for a special kind of artwork. I have small pieces I have used in the past for a padded backing when I do scrimshaw artwork. It holds the ivory nicely in place, is non slip and also works well as a quick wrap that protects the small pieces of ivory from scraches since I would take it with me to work and work on the art projects from time to time. I don't intend to irritate anyone about it being ivory. This material was bought years ago, and originally came from a resource that recycled old piano keys, when they were made of ivory back in the day. A company that is carefully scrutinized and monitored by the government, is allowed to sell a volume of old stock ivory from materials left over from a very long time ago. I bought four small pieces like this, and if I do it again in the future, it will likely be mammoth ivory, since they were extinct and dead long before mankind came along a decided to shoot an animal for its teeth.
I don't want to wander off topic too much. But I'll share the two pics here.

I pulled up a few pictures of the padding and artwork, if anyone is interested in fine art as well. I don't want to get completely off topic, since this is a coffee forum, but I'll share them since they have to do with the padding you pointed out. I edited one image so that it wouldn't offend anyone. I don't think it's distasteful, but I will remove the one, which is of a model if it's somehow deemed inappropriate. That was the first one I ever did, back in 2006. It took hours and hours tapping literally several hundreds of thousands of small dots with a sharp tool. Then a nice dark brown oil paint is rubbed onto the surface. The small dots retain the color after I rub off the excess.
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The second one is a work in progress that I haven't touched in a while. It might look good when I finish it, if I ever get around to it.
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I had considered trying to figure out a way to scrimshaw an image of a coffee bean into the white cap on top of my tamper as well. The Delron material is quite hard, and a completely different surface to work with. I don't know if it would work.
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Postby kize on Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:01 pm

I just put a few drops of clear silicone glue on the metal edge and stuck them back on. Problem solved.
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Postby cannonfodder on Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:59 pm

Clear silicone caulk, dont use contact cement.
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Postby LaDan on Tue Sep 13, 2011 11:02 pm

Amazing art work skill there, Tom! :)

Let us know how the non-slip pad works. If it works well, I might buy a pad and cut 4 little rectangular pieces for my Duetto too.

PEX is an abbreviation for Cross-Linked ("X") Poly-Ethylene. Here's a Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-linked_polyethylene

You can also Youtube "pex tubing" and see a few guys deform the tubing and then apply direct heat to it and it goes back to its original form. (Shape memory). It is used for plumbing, gas lines, electrical lines, etc.

Regarding using the PEX, I actually found something that I think would work better. I was shopping at Lowe's for filtration tubing and connectors and saw this Fuel Line tubing (made by the same Watts company who makes all the quick-connect that you find in most major stores). It is made of a much thicker rubber and I think it will grab the stainless steel much better. 12" cost $0.98. You can also get a fuel line in every car parts store. I'll post a picture of it in a minute.

Here you go:

Again, this might be a good solution to someone who already lost a few of his original rubber pads.
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Postby TomC on Fri Sep 16, 2011 7:34 pm

cannonfodder wrote:Clear silicone caulk, dont use contact cement.



I guess the new tube of superglue will stay in it's package. Off to the hardware store on Sunday or Monday when I get a day off. Thanks all, for the tips. Glad you liked the artwork LaDan.
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