Is there a standard 220V plug/outlet for commercial espresso machines. - Page 2
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- Posts: 401
- Joined: 14 years ago
Yes I did misunderstand and I edited my first post on this. When he said dryer circuit I took it literally now reading between the lines I see he was refering to 220v 30amp wiring in a house.
This is a setup often used to power high wattage dryers thus his use of the word "dryer Circuit."
I can understand installing the lower rated plug for convenience (not having to install another type of plug on your machine thus restricting it to that plug type) but a short circuit will trip most breakers anyway and a machine should have some of it's own built in features to prevent it from self igniting. I would want to fuse or put a breaker inside the machine if it already does not have one instead of going through all the trouble of installing a lower rated breaker on the house line to use as one. Hummm but then again it might actually be less trouble than doing the machine itself. This is something to think about I suppose.
The extra safety would certainly not hurt.
This is a setup often used to power high wattage dryers thus his use of the word "dryer Circuit."
I can understand installing the lower rated plug for convenience (not having to install another type of plug on your machine thus restricting it to that plug type) but a short circuit will trip most breakers anyway and a machine should have some of it's own built in features to prevent it from self igniting. I would want to fuse or put a breaker inside the machine if it already does not have one instead of going through all the trouble of installing a lower rated breaker on the house line to use as one. Hummm but then again it might actually be less trouble than doing the machine itself. This is something to think about I suppose.
The extra safety would certainly not hurt.
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- Posts: 499
- Joined: 17 years ago
Installing a fuse or breaker in the machine itself would not protect the receptacle or the line cord (but would not be a bad idea on its own). It would also not be code and if trouble ensued an insurance headache. Yes a short would trip the breaker but an overload wouldn't unless it got past the rating for enough time. Changing the breaker is not that difficult. Using the lowest rating that works provides a bit of extra protection.
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- Chert (original poster)
- Posts: 3537
- Joined: 16 years ago
+1; Thanks for persevering to help me get some salient points understoodThank you Duke-one I learned a few things tonight.
wire rated to thirty amp is a good idea
breaker and receptacle/plug appropriate to the appliance
LMWDP #198