In my planning to restore this CMA Lever machine, I'm contemplating how I want the final product to look. I know lots of folks go for shiny chrome and original looks, but really, I love the industrial beauty of the boiler, tubing, etc. I've even considered making a clear cover for the pressurestat to reveal the insides.

I may just leave the panels off and come up with a way to electrically insulate the high voltage parts.

I'd like the shiny boiler and pipes to stay that way - any thoughts on a coating that might withstand the heat but keep the boiler/tubing from tarnishing?

How about the thermal performance - will running with the covers off seriously degrade the performance?

19th century steam punk would be a naked machine with red, blue, black, and yellow paints depending on the temperatures and pressures of the parts you are painting. Chrome and glossy black for a mid-century hot-rod look. Classic pre-WWII espresso machines were never naked, but did have "tailored" cases on boilers and pipes, so that the operation was obvious (look at Elektra home machines now). After that phase, you had futurist/fascist, art deco and bauhaus cases. I've also seen some NS machines that had a frosted plastic case with led lights on the interior. Kees van der Westen, today's premier espresso machine designer, mostly references the deco look, with some futurist touches thrown in on occasion.

Take your pick.

A case of some sort is a good thing, just in case a steam line fails or the safety pressure valve opens....

Im keen on doing the same, I have bought a 2 group 80's Astoria( Same group as yours).

Jim, have you had any shots from the CMA group head? I have only had from my P67 lever and it is fantastic.

Rebuilding 1988 Astoria 2 Group Lever
Here are some ideas, I like the machine with the front cover off, those bulb group heads are too good lookin to hide away:)

Send us some photos when you get a chance.

craigcharity wrote:Jim, have you had any shots from the CMA group head? I have only had from my P67 lever and it is fantastic.

Thanks for reminding me to finish the write up. I had a chance to meet Gwylim Davies and play with the NS/Victoria Arduino lever machine which uses the Astoria group in an HX configuration. It was almost impossible to mess up a shot; but it apparently takes a lot of dialing in to get great shots -- nobody who tried, including Gwylim and several top Chicago baristas, thought they had gotten close to nailing a great shot during that 3 hour meeting.

I talked to him for about ten minutes and he said with this machine, you stick with one coffee for an extended period of time and expect to spend several days getting it perfect. He will give away the shots for the first few days of dialing in a new blend (I didn't ask whether he still charges for the milk drinks)

Thanks for reminding me to finish the write up. I had a chance to meet Gwylim Davies and play with the NS/Victoria Arduino lever machine which uses the Astoria group in an HX configuration

Does it make a difference if it is not a HX? As I understand the water in the heat exchanger is the same as the water in the boiler so it should not make a difference from that angle. But does the Astoria HX group have a thermo syphon which would make a difference to the group temperature. I know my Pavoni group has a bent copper pipe going in the boiler and sitting under the water. Does the HX group have 2 1/2 inch females at the back like a E61 group head?

You could always use clear panels (see the machine built by Espressoparts for Mavelous in SF).

A great picture! The clear panels would also serve both needs of not only aesthetics, but safety as well.

Mark08859 wrote:A great picture! The clear panels would also serve both needs of not only aesthetics, but safety as well.

But there's not much room inside for the fish...