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How to clean commercial water softener

Postby ScottieDoo on Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:10 pm

Hi everyone, I've been (very slowly) restoring a 2 group San Marco machine and I'm just about done with the machine itself. So now I'm looking to clean/restore the commercial softener that came with it.

Searching the forums here and on coffeegeek hasn't turned up any posts of how other people have cleaned softeners before. As you can see in the picture below the resin beads aren't all the same colour, and those were only taken from the very top. Its probably sat for 3 years without being used. Is there a method to cleaning these beads or should I just purchase new ones, assuming they're cheap enough?

Thanks
Scott
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Postby iginfect on Tue Dec 29, 2009 4:06 am

I'd try regenerating the resin with a salt solution. If it works, great. If not, I'd replace the resin. I'm no expert but I did install a whole house water softener about 3-4 years ago.

Marvin
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Postby adriand on Tue Dec 29, 2009 12:13 pm

Hi Scott;

That resin does not look too healthy. Water softener resin beads dont last forever.

Heres a link that gives instructions for changing resin:

http://www.ohiopurewaterco.com/loadmedia.html

If you need new resin, try calling the company, if they cant supply you they might be able to point you to a supplier in your area.
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Postby stefano65 on Tue Dec 29, 2009 5:04 pm

If you have only the little amount inside a 12liter
you should definitely buy some more
Stefano Cremonesi
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Postby ScottieDoo on Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:56 pm

I stopped by a couple of places in town that sell water softeners, of course they'd never seen one of these. They sell new beads by the cubic foot only - which I guess is a little more than I'd need. The one place wanted $200 for new beads so I figured I had nothing to lose by trying to clean it up.
I took the valves off and soaked them in citric acid and cleaned them on my wire wheel, they look like new, although part of the material that surrounds the ball valve is crumbling - I guess due to age. I'd like to hook it up to pressure to test for leaks, but I don't want to plumb it into my home, I may have a pump I can use for the purpose.
As for the beads, I sat the softener in the sink and ran a ton of water through it. The water was kinda black looking for some time. My wife (who is a very good sport about my coffee habit) stuck her arm in the top to move the beads all around. It looks like there was a layer of oxidation or something similar on the interior of the softener. It came off just by wiping at it and flushing. So now the beads look like they should - that kind of golden colour.
I'm hoping I can hook up water to it this weekend and try recharging it. Does anyone think its possible to recharge it by trickling water in from the top as opposed to the valve?

Thanks again.
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Postby shadowfax on Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:25 pm

Scottie,

I don't know about oxidation. I'd think the most likely candidate would be some type of organic growth, particularly given how easy it was to take off. I've read warnings on these things that they're prone to that kind of thing if you filter out the chlorine in tap water upstream of the softener (e.g., with a carbon filter).

I'd think bleaching it (with an extremely mild solution) and flushing it thoroughly might be a good idea in any case, though you might want to ask some softening resin bead experts before doing that. If it proves not to work (I assume you have hardness test equipment), it's probably cheapest to just buy a new, smaller softener.

I think you can probably recharge the resin without any water pressure, but I doubt you'll be able to flush it sufficiently without hooking it up to the water line.
Nicholas Lundgaard
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Postby ScottieDoo on Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:52 am

Well I had time this morning to hook it up to a pump to pressure test it. Its leaking from both valves like I thought it might. I figure I can find replacement 3 way valves if I want to keep it. Although it may be tricky if its a metric thread onto the body of the softener.
I'm a little leary of putting a mild bleach solution through it, I still remember doing the same with a camelbak years ago to get rid of a growth in it and tasting bleach for weeks after.
I just read a few articles from different sites, saying that resin beads are good for about 10 years give or take. New beads are about $100 a cubic foot, but thats in the US, more here in Canada. It may be cheaper and easier to simply replace this softener.
I bought a used 2 group San Marco from ebay 2 or 3 years ago to work on as a project. It included a grinder, external pump and the softener. The grinder is finished, the pump is finished and the machine should be brought upstairs to hook up to water and power to finish off. Its just the softener thats not ready. To be honest I'm not sure what to do with everything when its done. It way too big to keep in the house. I suppose I'll try to sell it as a package. It has been a fun but aggravating at times project.

Thanks
Scott
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Postby jlhsupport on Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:06 pm

Happened upon this thread while trying to help a resident in Guam with one of these canister softeners. From the many discussions I had with the maintenance crew at my former employer, Houghton Fluidcare, a fouled resin bed must be washed with acid, typically HCL to remove contaminants. If it is fouled with bacteria, use bleach. If it is rust, use Iron Out. Any other foreign material, and you have to do the acid wash and be darned careful to avoid a chemical burn.

This is why pre-softener sediment filters are mandatory on well water and why you should always use a high-purity salt. I find that the 80 lb bags sold at softener companies are better and usually cost the same or less than the Morton salt you find in the grocery store or Wally World. Way back before I knew squat about water treatment, it was recommended to me to use the cheap blue bag of Solar Salt. Then I listened to experts who I am sure saved me a bundle on equipment repairs.
Joshua Stack
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