cmin wrote:Yeah I thought people had actually done test with a kill-a-watt meter and showed less use over all daily with being left on, vs turning on and off and then back on later in the day (as some machines can suck up power heating up)

Read the Leaving a Prosumer HX Espresso Machine On CAN SAVE ENERGY thread that Dan linked above. It originally made that claim based on measurements, but was flawed - I think there's a small problem with the laws of thermodynamics - leaving it on should always cost you more unless your house is cold and your espresso machine is more efficient than your home heating system. But the savings in turning it off can be surprisingly small.

cmin wrote:Yeah I thought people had actually done test with a kill-a-watt meter and showed less use over all daily with being left on, vs turning on and off and then back on later in the day (as some machines can suck up power heating up)

That'd be a neat trick, i.e., you save energy by expending energy. Woot!

Not wanting to be left out of the discussion, I measured with a Kill-a-Watt and confirmed there is a measurable savings in energy by turning the espresso machine off. I summarized the rationale for 24/7 operation in Leave it on, or turn it off? and excerpted it below for easy reference:

HB wrote:I can appreciate the convenience of always-on espresso machines, especially for commercial units that demand hours to stabilize. But I've still not heard any compelling evidence tying premature component failures to on/off cycling. Simply put: What components are more likely to fail if a machine is run four hours a day versus 24/7?

In past discussions, I've read the following disadvantages of on/off cycling:

• Inconvenient if one must wait, or added expense if one buys a timer; risk that machines without auto-refill with be turned on without water and burn out the heating element; risk that brew switch will be inadvertently be left in on position and burn out pump when timer starts it
• Increases scale build-up at the boiler's waterline
• "Stresses" connections of dissimilar metals (How does this manifest itself as a failure - boiler leaks? If so, from where?)
• Electronic components are subjected to changing temperatures, which increases the likelihood of them failing. The argument that failures are more common with frequently cycled computers is often cited in the same context
• Sensitive electronic components are subjected to electrical spikes when machine is turned on/off

I've read the following advantages of on/off cycling:

• Saves energy
• Increases the lifespan of gaskets
• Reduced usage decreases pressurestat's carbon buildup, which is the leading cause of failure
• Some "weaker" connections are made of nylon or plastic (tees, insulators). Exposure to less heat reduces their failure rates
• Reduced exposure to high temperatures increases the lifespan of sensitive electronic components like controllers (note: applies mostly to prosumer / semi-commercial machines; they are located outside of the case of most commercial units)

Looking at the list above, the one that sticks out for me is the pressurestat. They cost around $40-$60. If I remember correctly, that roughly equates to the added energy cost of approximately two years' 24/7 operation. It wouldn't surprise me if 24/7 operation would decrease some pressurestat's lifespan by that much (e.g., CEME, MATER).

erics wrote:Your machine should be plugged into a suitable appliance timer, for an EXAMPLE:

http://www.intermatic.com/en/Products/T ... DT620.aspx

Set the machine to come on 1 hour prior to your first use and turn off X hours later.

Very good! This is exactly what Ill need, however shouldnt the machine be connected to a surge protector as well ? And if yes, how should this connection be set up. plug surge protector to outlet> plug timer in surge protector> plug machine to timer?

homeburrero wrote:Agree completely with Eric. Get a heavy duty timer (grounded, at least 15 Amp.)

The power switch is robust - you won't wear it out so there's no reason to avoid using it other than convenience. But that convenience of having it up to temp when you need it is huge because it probably takes 30-40 minutes to be ready. You save a little on your electricity bill by turning it off, but if you turn it back on in 3 hours or less that saving is insignificant. You can use a kill-a-watt to measure, but I'm guessing that your machine (uninsulated nickel plated copper boiler w/ E-61) is similar to mine - averages about 100 watts while sitting hot and idle, and burns about 300 watt-hours to go from cold to ready.

Thank you but how do i know what AMP i have? Is the AMP measured on machine or the outlet?
Would a Mitica Bezzera be 15 or 20 ? And should the machine be plugged into a surge protector as well ? If yes, where would the timer be plugged in, the surge protector then the machine in the timer?

. . . however shouldn't the machine be connected to a surge protector as well ?

I have operated (in the home) espresso machines for 25+ years and not one of them has ever been connected to a surge protected outlet. If a machine NEEDS to be connected to a surge protected outlet, then it is the responsibility of the machine's manufacturer to state as such in the manual which accompanies the machine.

I am aware of the fact that some espresso machine retailers either recommend or require that the machine be connected to a surge protected outlet. I do not see how it would matter as regards the order of connections but I do foresee a pretty busy countertop when a surge protector is installed. Keep in mind that I am a mechanical "type" and would defer to an electrical engineer in this regard.

Your machine might pull about 13-14 amps when the element is on and the pump is on. (A nominal* 1450 watt 110V element works out to about 13 amp, and maybe another amp when the rotary pump is running.)

If you don't already have a GFCI protected outlet, I think having that would be more important than a surge protector. You can buy a combination surge + GFCI that plugs into the outlet. I think you'd plug that into the outlet, plug the timer into that, and then the machine into the timer.


* 'nominal' meaning the voltage and wattage printed the machine label. On the machines that I've measured, all have drawn less than the nominal wattage on my 115V home circuit. My '1000 watt, 110V' Gaggia Factory only pulls 885 Watts at 115V. My '1300 watt, 115V' Giotto pulls 1140 watts at 115V.

erics wrote:Your machine should be plugged into a suitable appliance timer, for an EXAMPLE:
http://www.intermatic.com/en/Products/T ... DT620.aspx .

The fact that it is so easy to set as well as having non-volatile memory for programming makes it an excellent choice.

There are a number of easily programmed digital 120v/15A timers available but you need to to check to see what is listed for maximum wattage. Some are 1700 W, some 1800 W & the one I just bought was 1875 W.

If anyone finds a nice digital 120v/20a timer please let me know. Intermatic has a mechanical 20A/2500 W 24 hr timer but I haven't found any multiday digital versions.

John - You could trigger an SSR with a timer.

I recommend a WeMo Insight Switch.
http://m.belkin.com/us/F7C029/p/P-F7C029/
I use it with my Bezzera Magica, a sister machine to the Mitica. The WeMo's programmable timer is great. I have multiple rules set-up, allowing for different on/off schedules depending on the day. If needed, I can control it remotely with the wemo phone app, and turn it on/off manually while out of the house. Or, just let it follow the programmed schedule.

I has worked perfectly and is rated up to 1800 watts / 16A.

Also, the Insight model switch shows real time power usage through the phone app. It definitely confirms the greatest power usage is from a cold startup. I'm talking a continuous 1650 watts until the boiler is up to pressure. Then the usage drops to almost nil, and it only comes on again intermittently to maintain boiler pressure or when the pump is activated.

So maybe it is more economical to leave a machine on, as opposed to off and in again constantly.