X10 is cheap for a reason.

It likes to do things it wasn't told to do because of noise (or your neighbor with HIS X10 stuff!)

I install this stuff "on the side", and publish very sophisticated home control software (freely available) for this purpose. Don't use X10 for anything that you really care about.

For things like my HVAC (heat, air conditioning, etc) I use a relay box that is hard-wired. It always works. The X10 works when it feels like it. You can radically increase its reliability by spending a bit of money on a phase coupler (and whole-house surge suppressor), both of which are installed at your main electrical panel, but even with those items it won't be 100% reliable.

Here's a link to the home control code - it runs my entire home, including the pool, hottub, heat, A/C, etc: http://www.denninger.net/homedaemon.htm

LOL...

We already have a ceiling fan that requires a remote control - its in the peak of a 28' A frame in our living room.

Oddly I find it running when WE'VE used no other remote control on anything whatsoever. Clearly, someone, some where (and we live on 5 acres surrounded by neighborhoods) has something that is on the same frequency.

I like the X10 concept and from the looks of what I've seen, its not too terribly exspensive as an experiment. I like the idea of being able to override the espresso machine timer from bed if I'm sleeping in past a timer cycle. Still, finding my machine on an an odd time because the guy up the road has got his hot tub on auto would be kind of funny.

Even with X10 - what I really don't understand, is why I cannot find a digital timer for a 20 AMP system. I've checked exstensively online, made a trip to Home Despot, looked at the Intermatic website, etc.

Intermatic makes a dial pin timer that will handle a 20A load, so its not like its an impossibilty to manufacture. I really like the conveniance of the 7 day digital timer though.

Which leads me back to pretty much the topic of this whole thread - preparing resident electric service for a commercial machine.

We have a 30 year old house, the wiring is 14g. Nothing is GFI in the kitchen, which we will correct at the same time we are doing the wiring for a new machine.

I'm still hoping someone might be able to tell me what kind of amperage the pump on Elektra pulls.

The kitchen is also mid-remodel (its a very slow remodel!) and I need to figure out some outlet placement before I've got the tile guy out for new backsplash. I'm trying to figure out of Elektra and my Macap can share the same outlet, or do I need to arrange something else.

Thanks!

Ann

annp wrote:The kitchen is also mid-remodel (its a very slow remodel!) and I need to figure out some outlet placement before I've got the tile guy out for new backsplash. I'm trying to figure out of Elektra and my Macap can share the same outlet, or do I need to arrange something else.
Ann

Personally I'd have no qualms running the Elektra and grinder on the same 20A circuit. However, since you're remodeling/rewiring anyway it never hurts to have more go juice than is required and if was me I'd run two 20A circuits to that location. One for Elektra, the other for grinder, which could become grinders, which could become who knows what else might be added like blender for frozen mixed coffee drinks entertaining or electric vac pot or whatever.

If you really only have 14 gauge wire then that's only good for a 15 amp circuit. If you have any 20 amp breakers in your panelboard then you should have 12 gauge wire on those circuits. You may need an electrician to evaluate your wiring system. Be on the safe side and don't overload the wiring!

annp wrote:Even with X10 - what I really don't understand, is why I cannot find a digital timer for a 20 AMP system. I've checked exstensively online, made a trip to Home Despot, looked at the Intermatic website, etc.

Intermatic makes a dial pin timer that will handle a 20A load, so its not like its an impossibilty to manufacture. I really like the conveniance of the 7 day digital timer though.
Ann

Most likely simple economics, lack of demand.

The independant individual day/events programming is why I mentioned the computer X10 control in addition to the clock timer. FWIW have a simple basic non-clock touch pad control in the bedroom for over-ride control etc. The phone home control stuff looks intriguing too but haven't played with it.

FWIW I've never had a problem with errant X10 turning on in a decade of X10 use. I have had situations where a module would not turn on (or more often off) with the timer on a particular circuit, especially since it is on same circuit as audio-visual components and module in question on another circuit. Getting second timer and placing it on different circuit solved the problem. I understand there are X10 signal boosters or relays to make a more reliable system but have gotten by without them. If/when adding computer based control and it's transmitting module it'll be something I'll look at further.

I had no significant problems with X10 for literally 5 years here.

In the last six months, somebody on the same feed has started playing with the same stuff, because now I have lights that turn on at really odd times (when I didn't tell them to.)

Changing codes only helps sometimes. Clearly, what I'm seeing is "mangled" codes from someone else on the same side of the feed from the power company....and that's hard to block successfully.

There are better systems on the way. I'm somewhat of a geek in this regard and have my ear to the ground - we were supposed to have development kits and modules available 3Q last year, but it got delayed..... the new stuff is RF based and "mesh network" topology, so it should both be completely secure and self-healing, along with being confirmed once a command is given. Good stuff and not horribly expensive - once it becomes available.

Were I doing a complete remodel I'd go with a SSR to drive the 20A outlets using a low voltage trigger in a separate junction box. That's 100% reliable and works.

For NEW construction (or an extensive remodel) its not THAT much more expensive to "do it solid". But for existing construction that sort of thing is prohibitively expensive to implement.

Well, I was going to take my Fluke to my Elektra and get you a real amperage reading with the heating element on and pump running. Unfortunately my Fluke 189 maxes out at 10A. I can tell you that the electrical spec plate on the A3 lists 2200w 110V which works out to exactly 20A. Personally, I only run the A3 on my 20 amp circuit, my grinder sits on another circuit, which is only 5 feet away.

According to my resident expert, we can set up one more thing in our breaker box - and happily enough, its 20A capable.

I replaced the electric oven last June with a dual fuel model, and we had an electrician make some changes in the box and wiring at that time. Apparently our new oven pulls less load than the old oven.

If I'd known then I was about to give up on 15 A capable LM GS3, and was probably going to buy Elektra, I'd have done the work then. Oh well.

Still, I got my SO to agree to run one dedicated outlet for me, wire it 12g - and that is the extent of it! Since he built the house and has a degree in electrical engineering, I defer to him.

At least I'm both the executor of his estate and the primary beneficary...

I did say I'd be happy to pay someone to do this, but he pointed out I could spend that money on him and buy him some Mitchell & Ness reproduction jerseys instead.

Ann