Help diagnosing false pressure (?) / temperature issue - Page 3

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · by **erics** on Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:58 pm

You might want to see if you can buy some of the valve "inserts" alone. They are, to the best of my knowledge, identical throughout the E-61. Total would be three.

Eli, all of our machines are getting to this stage and maybe it's time for an E-61 grouphead overhaul manual. However, it is pretty well covered here: http://coffeetime.wikidot.com/e61-group-servicing

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but the content is well written - thanks to DaveC.

by **Beezer** on Sun Feb 14, 2010 5:06 pm

OK, I just dismantled the mushroom. It was pretty easy, as advertised. I don't see any major scale deposits or blockage in the gicleur or any of the other holes. Everything's soaking in vinegar now just to be sure, but there are no obvious problems.

The brew valve seals look like they may be worn out though. Take a look at these pics and tell me what you think.

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · by **erics** on Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:32 pm

That brew valve looks like normal wear & tear to me. Too bad I did't think of this before you ordered the parts or I would have said to order a new o-ring for the mushroom and several of the valve inserts plus a baby tube of food grade grease.

by **Beezer** on Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:26 am

I haven't ordered anything yet. I e-mailed Chris (of Chris' Coffee) and he told me there could be any number of things causing the problem. So I just took it apart to see if I could find any obvious problems. Doesn't look there are any blatant issues, so I guess I'll order up the brew valve and O-rings and just replace those and see if that solves the problem.

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · by **erics** on Mon Feb 15, 2010 6:47 am

Eli - you need one o-ring for the mushroom, the small tube of food grade lubricant, the brew valve, and, while you're at it, several inserts for the other various valves (if he sells those separately). edit - the only reason I was suggesting buying the brew valve as a whole was on the remote chance you would have a problem in disassembling the original. In this type of adventure, practice makes perfect (well, maybe).

IF, together with a dramatic drop in group temperature, you also experience a large delay in getting water flow out of the grouphead, that, to me, means ya have a leak. Is this the situation?

by **TheRaven** on Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:24 pm

I would definitely buy the entire brew valve. I think it is likely it will be difficult to disassemble. Additionally, the pin may be worn. I recommend replacing the brew valve and soaking the old one overnight in WD40 or liquid wrench before you attempt to unscrew the post. If you don't break it you will have a spare. If you do, you can toss it.

by **Beezer** on Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:28 pm

IF, together with a dramatic drop in group temperature, you also experience a large delay in getting water flow out of the grouphead, that, to me, means ya have a leak. Is this the situation?

Yes, that's what's happening. I should say that since dismantling and descaling the mushroom, I haven't had the problem reoccur. But I don't think it's really fixed yet, since there wasn't any appreciable scale in the mushroom when I took it apart.

I can order the brew valve from Chris along with the lubricant, but I don't see the other seals availale on their site. Are there other good sources for these seals?

by **TheRaven** on Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:56 pm

Try calling Chris'. They have more parts in stock than are listed on the website.

I had a leaking brew valve on my Anita and was able to confirm it by emptying and drying out the drip tray after making espresso. An hour or so later you will have water in the drip tray.

by **Beezer** on Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:31 pm

That's a good idea. Unfortunately, I've also got some leaking from my steam wand, so I tend to get water in the drip tray anyway. However, I may be able to distinguish between the two different leaks based on where the puddles are located. :oops:

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · by **erics** on Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:38 pm

Put the steam wand in a glass and trade the steam wand valve for the HW valve and you're good to go for a while - maybe a long while. If you gently shut the valve when the machine is at room temp, you should be leak-free.

For sure, this is not the "professional" way to take care of ills but . . .


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