unidonburi wrote:e-61 type HX machine problem. part deux.
gauge seems okay: I warmed up the machine (the vendor told me to do this) the next day and the gauge seemed to be fine. The condensation on the glass had dried overnight and it was working fine after I heated up the machine. So... the vendor told me to just keep using it.
No I am pretty sure the gauge won't be OK long term, from what you described before, there is definitely a problem, because you should never get condensation in the gauge
new problem: Strangely enough...with the cover off the machine, I now noticed a steam leak on the opposite side (from the gauge) of the machine . Using the flexible tubing stethoscope diagnosis method suggested, I isolated the leak to the element gasket. I reported this to the vendor and he said that I should remove the insulation I had surrounded the boiler with. He thinks that the temperature in the boiler could be adversely affected by the insulation.
Some history: After I got the machine, armed with info from this site, I asked the vendor if I could insulate the boiler and still keep my warranty, just to save some power... He said I could. The heater used to cycle every 30s, but with the insulation, it cycles every 60 sec. So it is probably saving power and protecting the electronics a bit. The vendor also recommended a timer that I could use to start my machine in the mornings. Since I bought the machine 4 months ago, this machine has also had 2 high-limit thermofuses blow on it: one before the insulation and one after - both were replaced by the vendor under warranty.
In fairness to the dealer, if the insulation covered the thermal hi limit fuses, depending on their design, they may think an overheating situation had occurred. If they are fusible links, it's quite unlikely the insulation will cause them to melt early, unless they are quite sensitive. But this would only be if they were covered by the insulation
Vendor changes his tune: After I reported the new leak, the vendor said that I had to take the insulation off because he thought that it was causing problems. I asked him if I could, instead of removing the insulation, I could just turn the boiler pressure down from 1.2 to 1.1 or lower. He said that I would have to remove the insulation or lose my warranty... okay fine. But his reason was that he said that this pressurestat shouldn't be adjusted. It looks like the standard C.E.M.E. model with 2 screws, one for deadband and one for the pressure. I haven't insulated the thermosyphon tubes, or any of the fittings... just the boiler.
My question: I know that I don't have a choice, I don't want to lose my warranty, but can someone tell me if his logic is sound? Wouldn't it be simpler to just turn the pressure down a bit? Also: why would insulating the boiler cause the gasket to blow (I thought fewer cycles would be better for the machine)?
In fairness to the Vendor again, he is responsible for the warranty, so if he wants the machine standard, then it should be standard (whether it's right or not is irrelevant) . The pressurestats can of course be adjusted, but again why should the Vendor be honoring a warranty with someone he doesn't know fiddling inside the machine. If I was the vendor, I certainly would not want customers fiddling inside the machine. In 6-8 months the warranty will have expired and you can do what you want to it, but until then....
However if you ensure the machine is standard, you still have 2? problems, the Gauge and the leak near the heating element gasket. Both of these are unlikely to get better and will in all probability only get worse. You do need to have the dealer look at the machine and sort out the problems. it may help if you take some pictures around the boiler gasket, as leaking usually leaves some evidence and if the gauge mists up again, take a picture of that.
Best of luck
by unidonburi on Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:16 pm 
