Hi,
First, Im from Germany so please don't kill me for my bad english .
I have a serious problem with a Promac UP2 (mostly Rancilio parts) with which until now, nobody could help me. Its a GICAR-controlled automatic E61 Group. Everything works normally but the re-programming of the amount of water per shot.
The machine has a key-switch, so i assume the problem is here. Im going to try to explain the wiring as is it now to you, maybe you know whats wrong.
The Switch has three cables, a red, a black, and a white. When there's no key in it, red and black are connected. If the key is inserted and turned, red and black are separated, the key then is locked (programming-mode?)
Here you see a picture of the circuit board (in the blackbox) where the cables are attached.



At the top, there is ON, at the bottom OFF and at the left side something i cant read.
Top left and top right pins are connected everytime. Middle right and right bottom are connected by a Jumper.
The three cables are attached left, top to bottom: white red black.
It doesnt matter at which position the key switch is, i can only pull shots with the programmed amount. If i try to press and hold a button, it just recognize the press and starts the pull.

I hope you understand my problem and maybe someone knows how to deal with it or at least which part is damaged
Best Regards
Max

If i try to press and hold a button, it just recognize the press and starts the pull.

Like most other machines, this should work.
Key in "on" position.
Press and hold the program/continuous button till one or more LEDs come on.
Then press the button to be programmed.

If the machine starts direct when holding the program button, release it and press and hold it again.
If this also does not work, try combinations of two buttons e.g. continuous and 2 espressi.

I know Promac also used dip switches in the past for dose setting. If above fails, please make a picture showing the complete board.

Frank

Hi,
Badly, this doesn't work (both ways). The panel only recognises the first press, if I try to hold then, it goes off again.
But there is another interesting twist. This time, i tried the dosing right after switching the machine on - nothing worked. Every button only sent out approx. a second of water, either way the key switch was. Then, after a while (machine still heating up, no boiler pressure, no heat at blackbox), it was normal again. Seems like it needs some tries till it gets to work
I built up quite few machines by now, but none of them had such a strange problem
Oh, and here's a pic of the box. Cover is the Gicar standard (imprecise wiring scheme, sticker with "PTC 890")
The three cables in the middle are the switch-cables

A pity it did not work.
Last thing to try is to us a jumper instead of the key switch connector. Set a jumper over the middle and the bottom pin (white and red, as far as I can see) The problem can be in the switch.

Frank

Tried it with jumper (simulating a switch in not-programing mode) - no difference. Tried it without anything (simulating a switch in programing mode) - also no difference.
But again - i have to wait until the machine is somewhat of warm (short before boiler air valve closes) before anything more than one-second-intervals are working.
It cant be that the machine has a "thermo-probe", blocking it until its hot, can it?
Are there any vital electronic parts which are very sensitive to heat?

It cant be that the machine has a "thermo-probe", blocking it until its hot, can it?
Are there any vital electronic parts which are very sensitive to heat?

Very strange. I can assure you that there is absolute nothing that blocks the machine during heating.
I have had some cases that the flowmeter causes strange behavior. It took way too much current from the board causing all kinds of strange things. As far as I can see, this is a one group machine so it's hard to try out by disconnecting one flowmeter at a time.
You can try of course, but programming a machine without the flowmeter connected will program the machine to zero. This way the button will not respond anymore.
You can give it a shot and see if you at least can enter the programming mode.

After this, I would start worrying about the main board.

After this, I would start worrying about the main board.

already doin so
the flowmeter is new. as i first assembled the machine, i connected the old flowmeter as it was labeled without controlling. bad mistake, because it was labeled wrong . this destroyed the old flowmeter (maybe more????)
so i dont think the new one is the problem. can i use the machine without flowmeter? so i can at least try if there's still the problem while the machine heats up.....

Max,
You have a pretty old Gicar box there. First you will have to be sure that the connector is on the correct pins. Essentially the switch just connects 2 of the pins together to enter a different mode. Most of the Gicar boxes only had a 2 wire connection to make it easier. Any possibility you can take a picture of the side where the connector attached to the board? I would like to see if on the pins attached to the board if there are traces from all of the pins back to the CPU or if there are only a couple of pins with traces. This helps narrow down the possibilities of where the connector should be placed. Also, have you made sure the switch is working correctly? If it is not you can still enter "programming" mode with a "jumper". The jumper is a standard small plastic piece that connects 2 of the pins together, same as those used on computers and most other electronic boards.

You can use the machine without a flowmeter, however you may get an error of flashing lights telling you that no signal from the flowmeter is being received at the board.

Not sure if I will be any help but am happy to try.

BillC

Hi,
thanks for your help. Im not in town right now, i will post the picture tomorrow. the switch works correctly, also i tried jumpering with the pins the switch used, it didnt help