Hi Folks!

Long time lurker, deciding to join the party. I have to say that I absolutely enjoy this forum. I'm grateful that an extensive amount of resources exist for anyone willing to utilize them.

I'll preface my questions with a little history, if you're interested, otherwise skip this paragraph.
I hail from Rockford, Illinois and if you're familiar with the area you know that it's a little lackluster. That being said some buddies of mine (one of which I used to work with) have an up-and-coming roasting business. They're in the stage of moving out of a garage and into a small workspace. They've got a small two group astoria, which they hope to grow out of at some point. Being that I've got some background in art, design, and fabrication - and because I've wanted to do this for a while, we worked out that I'll get them a machine ready for when they grow into it. I synchronized some plans, and drove out to Colorado, where a machine waited. Through some research I figured out that the machine had been liquidated from Peabody Coffee, whom evidently went under due to Starbucks moving in/shady money business. The machine was cheap, and appeared to be in great shape.

Now here we are. I'm hoping to give you fellows an idea of my plans, hoping for constructive criticism, as well as ask deliberate questions at the end of my post.

I've taken all the paneling off, and soaked the parts, boilers, and groups in citric acid (I heard that acetic acid is more likely to do one over on the o-rings?).

There was honestly a minimal amount of scale. When I peaked in the boilers I saw some along the corners, as well as on the elements. The boilers don't appear to have any discoloration on the inside. I'll be brushing the outside on a bench grinder the next time I go into work.

I'm waiting for some parts (o-rings, gaskets, a couple wires, dispersion screens, sight glass replacement parts). When those come in the mail I should be done brushing the boilers and cleaning the paneling.

I'm thinking that the first thing to do is attach the groups. =o
I've found a lot of helpful info about the process - torque, sequence, heating the boiler, ect. So I hope this will go smoothly.

Reading around here has given me the impression that wiring is the next easiest step after seating the boilers, so I'm planning on that next. Then comes the tubes.

At this point I would reassemble the groups (I 'broke them down' to the diffuser, but left the diffuser alone, because I don't think it's necessary to take off?).

After it's all put together, I would fill and look for leaks internally, especially paying attention to the groups.

Then I'd test the groups. First and foremost I was thinking that I'd see that they flow, and test the keypads, and switches. I want to construct a thermofilter like I saw on here via SJM's post.

After pulling shots, and establishing that I've got a proper machine, I'm considering PID, but I'm a bit nervous.
I have some arduino experience, but that's about as close as I come to familiar.

And lastly, I wanna do some cosmetic stuff like paint the boiler, and throw some etched glass, and walnut on it, but we're a long way off.

QUESTIONS:
The gaskets for welded stud machines are expensive. http://www.espressoparts.com/MZ_255
Is there a cheaper source? EspressoLiquidators doesn't work on either of my computers, some Apache error.
Or, does anyone know anything about the silicon used for the gasket? I could find the material and cut it myself? Perhaps this is a downright awful idea, but from the outside looking in, I think it's doable.

Any o-rings or gaskets that are considered absolutely mandatory for a rebuild?
I've got group gaskets, steam wand o-rings, heating element gaskets on the way. Any others that should get replaced, even if the machine is in pretty darn good condition?

Does anybody have a suggestion about the type of torque wrench? (Slipper, beam, ect) Perhaps someone who's done group reattachment can say it doesn't matter which type?

Also, would you folks recommend loctite 262 as espresso parts recommends? I've heard things about the curing taking place due to pressure, not time?

Assuming my auto fill works, is there a way to fill one boiler at a time, as to look for leaks pertaining to those particular parts?

Would anyone recommend that I test any of the solenoids, flowmeters, ect independently? I assume their error would be obvious upon operation.

Alright, sorry for so much babble. =D
I'm sick, as well, so apologies if it doesn't seem indepth enough. Final apologies for not having pictures. I just bought a new phone, so I could switch to Ting's service, and don't have an sd card for pictures, yet. I'll post some soon.

Thanks in advance, and special shout-out to Paul Pratt, whose info has been of much help.