by allon on Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:50 pm
If you have any electrical skills, or know anyone who does, you can trace the circuit; typically, power will turn on the pilot light (so you know it has power), and feed the heating element via the pressurestat, which interrupts the circuit when up to pressure. There is also an overtemperature cut-off in case the pressurestat fails closed (which would also lead to venting pressure).
If I had a multimeter and was comfortable working with 120VAC, I would first check to see if there was voltage at the heating element. If yes, then the heating elment is suspect.
If no, then check for voltage at the input of the thermal-cut-out. If there is voltage there, then look for a reset button on the thermal cut-out; if there is one, then press it (with power off) and try again; if not, then the thermal cut-out is suspect.
If no voltage at the thermal cut-out, then check at the input of the pressurestat; If no voltage at the input of the pressurestat, there may be a bad splice, switch, or wire; if there is voltage at the input of the pressurestat, but none at the output (which goes to the overtemp cut-off), then the pressurestat isn't closing the circuit.
Some pressurestats have three contacts - most applications need only two. If one contact is bad, the bad circuit can be moved to a good contact.
Good luck!
LMWDP #331