Faema E61 two group - to salvage yard or counter? - Page 2
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 16 years ago
Easy does it with the pressure test. I get it. As I have begun the 'take apart' the unit is getting lighter so mabe I will have the PT done by a tech.
The elements both read 34 ohms so I think they are good. I am concerned about removing the element as the two retaining bolts appear to be steel on the non ferrous studs (?) and as I gently rotate the nuts the stud rotates with them. I think this is not good. I have sprayed with release agent and will heat them after that dries but I am thinking that I may have to crack the nuts off. I don't like doing that - has anyone seen if the bolt studs for the element go through to a threaded insert - as then I don't have to worry and can just turn them out.
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Whoops - solved that question by looking over the exploded parts diagrams at C.Parts - so they were studs! no worries there.
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Oh yes, and at the base of the HX the washers appear to be Asbestos! Can this be?
Simon
Yes Eric I agree - sometimes, but I have many a treasure thrown away for the most simple repair, so I am hoping this is one. A bit of time will tell. I am encouraged on this machine by the disaster that was the electrical wiring and connects. I am thinking this may have been the last owners problem. One connection was broken and others were down to a strand of copper. Very poor state of repair - but easy to correct.HOWEVER, I sorta think there's got to be a reason that someone would discard this machine.
The elements both read 34 ohms so I think they are good. I am concerned about removing the element as the two retaining bolts appear to be steel on the non ferrous studs (?) and as I gently rotate the nuts the stud rotates with them. I think this is not good. I have sprayed with release agent and will heat them after that dries but I am thinking that I may have to crack the nuts off. I don't like doing that - has anyone seen if the bolt studs for the element go through to a threaded insert - as then I don't have to worry and can just turn them out.
...
Whoops - solved that question by looking over the exploded parts diagrams at C.Parts - so they were studs! no worries there.
...
Oh yes, and at the base of the HX the washers appear to be Asbestos! Can this be?
Simon
- stefano65
- Sponsor
- Posts: 1405
- Joined: 17 years ago
Some people will kill to get that..................
In Italy you can still see some ORIGINAL ones operating in the same locations since those days
In Italy you can still see some ORIGINAL ones operating in the same locations since those days
Stefano Cremonesi
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.
- Psyd
- Posts: 2082
- Joined: 18 years ago
Soap and Perfume making suppliers (scroll down to the bottom) will have it, too, and far cheaper. For the same amount that you'd buy a few ounces, you can get five pounds of the stuff from these guys and shipping paid for, too. I bought a bound (they're local to me) and I still have at least three quarters of it, and I've descaled half of my project. I'm guessing that by the time I do the boiler and the rest of the pipes, I'll have gone through almost half a pound.Phaelon56 wrote:Try any store that sells supplies to home beer brewers - they'll carry it but in smallish containers perhaps about 4 oz size.
Espresso Sniper
One Shot, One Kill
LMWDP #175
One Shot, One Kill
LMWDP #175
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 16 years ago
Fantastic lead, thanks psyd (pronounced Sid?) and they sell Quat (the hell is quat?) too!
This way when my wife sees the package I can tell her I'm making soap! Now that's a cover I can use!
Now I have another tech question. The mercury switch seems a bit too rusty to me, and I am trying to figure if there is ANY reason to try and keep it. Does the machine make better coffee with this switch, should I keep it as 'original' as possible? If so, can anyone tell me, other than asking the boys at Terroni to take the lid of their machine for me to take a gander, how is this device supposed to move/work. It looks like it should pivot and lever arm - but it is all stiff and rusty.
Otherwise I have a Siari box thing that I pulled off a more modern Simonelli (similar fate) - I think these do the same thing but there is no part number that I can find. Does anyone recognise this item and what - if anything - I can use it for? It is that thing top left in this photo...3 #14ga wires in and 3 out.
Simon
This way when my wife sees the package I can tell her I'm making soap! Now that's a cover I can use!
Now I have another tech question. The mercury switch seems a bit too rusty to me, and I am trying to figure if there is ANY reason to try and keep it. Does the machine make better coffee with this switch, should I keep it as 'original' as possible? If so, can anyone tell me, other than asking the boys at Terroni to take the lid of their machine for me to take a gander, how is this device supposed to move/work. It looks like it should pivot and lever arm - but it is all stiff and rusty.
Otherwise I have a Siari box thing that I pulled off a more modern Simonelli (similar fate) - I think these do the same thing but there is no part number that I can find. Does anyone recognise this item and what - if anything - I can use it for? It is that thing top left in this photo...3 #14ga wires in and 3 out.
Simon
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 16 years ago
Psyd, Thanks again, found the acid at DIYsoap in Toronto for similar prices - great!
S
S
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- Posts: 512
- Joined: 18 years ago
hi againgummybun wrote:Fantastic lead, thanks psyd (pronounced Sid?) and they sell Quat (the hell is quat?) too!
This way when my wife sees the package I can tell her I'm making soap! Now that's a cover I can use!
Now I have another tech question. The mercury switch seems a bit too rusty to me, and I am trying to figure if there is ANY reason to try and keep it. Does the machine make better coffee with this switch, should I keep it as 'original' as possible? If so, can anyone tell me, other than asking the boys at Terroni to take the lid of their machine for me to take a gander, how is this device supposed to move/work. It looks like it should pivot and lever arm - but it is all stiff and rusty.
Otherwise I have a Siari box thing that I pulled off a more modern Simonelli (similar fate) - I think these do the same thing but there is no part number that I can find. Does anyone recognise this item and what - if anything - I can use it for? It is that thing top left in this photo...3 #14ga wires in and 3 out.
<image>
Simon
I play around with mostly old machines like yours. I personally hold no love for retaining 40 year old electronics! Consequently, mercury switches are always swapped with modern pstats. (when working correctly, the old pstats are lovely and quiet. I hate them after being shocked more than once. They are very difficult to restore, don't bother)
Your nuova simonelli bits are: sirai pstat (top left), grey autofill controller, mains switch, group solenoid plugs, autofill solenoid (right). Of these bits, I think only the pstat will be of use to you.
cheers
Paul
LMWDP #084
Paul
LMWDP #084
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 16 years ago
So I am now breaking down the machine into its' components and I am loosening all the connectors while still on the frame. But...
The bottom rear sets at the rear base of the HX are so tight I am afraid that I may crack the tank braze joint. I used heat as some have suggested but no difference there. I don't want to overheat in fear of melting to solder/braze. Am I wrong? How much heat is too much on these joints?
Or I could just leave these two pipes on for the tank cleaning, and throw the whole lot in the citric acid. Seems less than meticulous but safe.
Any advice would be received with gratitude.
Simon
The bottom rear sets at the rear base of the HX are so tight I am afraid that I may crack the tank braze joint. I used heat as some have suggested but no difference there. I don't want to overheat in fear of melting to solder/braze. Am I wrong? How much heat is too much on these joints?
Or I could just leave these two pipes on for the tank cleaning, and throw the whole lot in the citric acid. Seems less than meticulous but safe.
Any advice would be received with gratitude.
Simon
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 16 years ago
Well, I tried the Heat gun as suggested elsewhere - still no luck. In fact one of the 4 lugs entering the group heads is also not turning and I am getting a bit pissed. So I will leave this project 'till I cool it for a bit. Here is a plate of the pipes removed so far.
I removed the element - ouch - there is a lot of scale in there!
SE
I removed the element - ouch - there is a lot of scale in there!
SE
- Randy G.
- Posts: 5340
- Joined: 17 years ago
If it's fasteners that are stuck to the point that removing them might damage surrounding parts (this goes for standard hardware as well as other threaded and such parts that can be sourced) my best friend is a Dremel or similar rotary tool with either a thin cut-off wheel or a small carbide bit. You can do something like cut the head off the allow the parts to be separated, then drill through the center of the fastener which often relieves enough tension and creates enough heat that the remaining bit can be removed fairly easily. Run a tap through the threads if possible and Robert's your Mother's brother.
Also, on a more benign note, heat and vibration can also be allies. We use to loosen frozen nuts on battery hold-down by running them under a hot faucet (very hot water) and then tapping them repeatedly on the old cast iron sink.
Also, on a more benign note, heat and vibration can also be allies. We use to loosen frozen nuts on battery hold-down by running them under a hot faucet (very hot water) and then tapping them repeatedly on the old cast iron sink.
EspressoMyEspresso.com - 2000-2023 - a good run, its time is done
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: 16 years ago
The machine is in pieces. The frame is free and the panels are all free from the frame.
The tank has a couple of 'flange' nuts or 'T's protruding and one pipe. But all this will fit into the citric acid tank, so should I just dump the whole lot in or continue to struggle with the remaining bolts - this is the question.
The gaskets at the base of the hx appear to be aspestos. will the citric acid damage these so that I need to take them off? They sure seem to be holding fast - stuck - and I really think releasing them will be hard. The nuts inside the machine appear pristine and I suspect they have rarely - if ever - been moved. Unfortunately on the outside there is evidence of a vise grip applied to the group bottoms. They seem awfully tight too. I'll post a shot or two in the morning light.
Any comments as always, happy to get 'em.
Simon
The tank has a couple of 'flange' nuts or 'T's protruding and one pipe. But all this will fit into the citric acid tank, so should I just dump the whole lot in or continue to struggle with the remaining bolts - this is the question.
The gaskets at the base of the hx appear to be aspestos. will the citric acid damage these so that I need to take them off? They sure seem to be holding fast - stuck - and I really think releasing them will be hard. The nuts inside the machine appear pristine and I suspect they have rarely - if ever - been moved. Unfortunately on the outside there is evidence of a vise grip applied to the group bottoms. They seem awfully tight too. I'll post a shot or two in the morning light.
Any comments as always, happy to get 'em.
Simon