Faema Compact S rebuilding. Asking for help and advice.
-
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 15 years ago
Hi to all at Home-Barista forums. It's great to be here among such coffee enthusiasts! I'm just registered and it's my first post. And I'd like to believe that you can help me with my current project. I'm trying to rebuild an old Faema Compact S espresso machine. It's a rather simple semi-auto machine, but it's the first time I'm doing something like this, so I want to be sure that everything will be alright. So let me ask different questions about rebuilding process in this thread. I'm sure that there are many experienced persons here and hope you'll help me with this project.
There are several thing which surprised me during the deconstruction process. And the first one is the main water inlet valve. I've seen many Faema Compact S machines in a web and all of them have the same water inlet valve, which looks like this one:
Here it is again:
But mine is different:
Please, would you be so kind to describe me my valve's functioning mechanism. And how to install and tune it up properly? Do I have all necessary parts or some parts missed? Should I replace any part? Here some more photos:
Thanks! Looking for answers from you.
There are several thing which surprised me during the deconstruction process. And the first one is the main water inlet valve. I've seen many Faema Compact S machines in a web and all of them have the same water inlet valve, which looks like this one:
Here it is again:
But mine is different:
Please, would you be so kind to describe me my valve's functioning mechanism. And how to install and tune it up properly? Do I have all necessary parts or some parts missed? Should I replace any part? Here some more photos:
Thanks! Looking for answers from you.
-
- Posts: 844
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hi there from the other side of the world! I've just finished re-building one of those.Great machine to work on - well laid out.Here's a link to series of 3 articles i found very useful.Part 2 explains the water valve.I got spare parts from australia, hopefully you'll find some closer to home.If not i have a few parts lying around or could give you a link to the australia parts supplier i used
http://www.homeroasters.org/php/forum/v ... #post_2473
Good luck with the re-build
http://www.homeroasters.org/php/forum/v ... #post_2473
Good luck with the re-build
-
- Posts: 844
- Joined: 17 years ago
Whoops, sorry - just read your post fully and seen you have a different water valve.I haven't seen that one before! By placing it in the machine in its proper position you should be able to work out the water flow. There should be a water intake, Pipe to the boiler (heat exchanger) a pipe to the boiler fill, and possibly a pipe to the drain bung - my water valve had an over pressure valve in it. The rod opposite the water inlet is a manual boiler fill when its hooked up to mains water.The pipe above that will most likely be the boiler fill pipe. Hope this helps
-
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 15 years ago
Hi kitt, thanks for answer. I've seen the article you'd mentioned, but that man has another type of water inlet. I've found that my water inlet looks more like the one from Faema Star, but there are some differences:
1. I have a fitting where Star has a blind plug.
2. My Compact has a slightly different fitting than one on the Star scheme.
3. I have a blind plug where Star has a fitting.
Please, look:
What's wrong with my inlet? Please, help me to understand.
1. I have a fitting where Star has a blind plug.
2. My Compact has a slightly different fitting than one on the Star scheme.
3. I have a blind plug where Star has a fitting.
Please, look:
What's wrong with my inlet? Please, help me to understand.
-
- Posts: 844
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hi Dan, sorry i can't be more help, but i'm not familiar with that valve.Maybe someone with experience with that water valve will post something.Was the machine working with that valve installed when you got it? I'm guessing that fitting no.1 in your pic is the boiler fill, No.2 is the o.p.v and the fitting above that goes to your heat exchanger/boiler. Maybe a repair person adapted the valve to work on your machine some time in the past?
-
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 15 years ago
Hi to all again!
I'm still working on my Faema Compact. You can see ongoing photo diary here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dan-kay/se ... 839763062/ Comments and advice are welcome.
I'm still working on my Faema Compact. You can see ongoing photo diary here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dan-kay/se ... 839763062/ Comments and advice are welcome.
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: 15 years ago
Dan,
Just checked your pics on flickr and thinking you have one heck of a job on your hand! Did the shipper insure the item so you can get the postal service to pay for the damaged parts? I can only imagine how difficult it will be to find replacement body panels.
I wish you the best in this restore!
Mike
Just checked your pics on flickr and thinking you have one heck of a job on your hand! Did the shipper insure the item so you can get the postal service to pay for the damaged parts? I can only imagine how difficult it will be to find replacement body panels.
I wish you the best in this restore!
Mike
-
- Posts: 166
- Joined: 15 years ago
Just finished going through all your pics. What a great job so far! The polishing job is excellent. This really shows pride in workmanship.
Can't wait to see the reconstructed machine with the new stainless bodypanels.
Mike
Can't wait to see the reconstructed machine with the new stainless bodypanels.
Mike
-
- Posts: 446
- Joined: 15 years ago
Wow, I just looked at your pics as well...
you did a phenomenal job at polishing.. what did you do? Rub everything with sand paper? What grit did you use and how did you manage to even do all of the threads?
Nice Work!
you did a phenomenal job at polishing.. what did you do? Rub everything with sand paper? What grit did you use and how did you manage to even do all of the threads?
Nice Work!
-
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 15 years ago
Thank's for your kind words guys. Mike, you see, there was a problems with our postal service. Shipper insured the item. But, as I was told by post officers, did not make special marks on boxes such as "fragile", "handle with care" and so on. So they have said: "Well... it's not our fault". Can you imagine how angry and upset I was? The new panels is the main problem now...
Talking about polishing... well, I've decided to do it due to several circumstances. First of all because I could do it and I like how the polished brass looks. Maybe it is unnecessary, because all this parts are inside the machine and could not be seen until you take off some body panels. But I'll know that I did my best with this machine, you know... Also I think that polished parts are more resistant to became dirty and you should only use a piece of hard wool to make them shine again. I'm not trying to make an ideal polished surface. And when you look closer you see little imperfections. I'm not trying to make this part's look like new, but, in opposite, like old and very-very well cared. Polished brass has a very warm and classy look. And it gives a touch of soul to the machine's interior look.
That's how brass polishing goes. First of all I scrub the parts with a little coarse file to correct technological imperfections or deep scratches. Then sand with 400 grit sand paper. 2500 grit sand paper goes after 400 grit. Brass is a very soft metal, so there is no reason to make cross sanding with numerous different grit sand paper (400-800-1500 and so on). 2500 after 400 is good enough. The final step is polishing with a special universal polishing compound (a little green nubbin in a black box). I've upload some new photos where you'll see the process.
Talking about polishing... well, I've decided to do it due to several circumstances. First of all because I could do it and I like how the polished brass looks. Maybe it is unnecessary, because all this parts are inside the machine and could not be seen until you take off some body panels. But I'll know that I did my best with this machine, you know... Also I think that polished parts are more resistant to became dirty and you should only use a piece of hard wool to make them shine again. I'm not trying to make an ideal polished surface. And when you look closer you see little imperfections. I'm not trying to make this part's look like new, but, in opposite, like old and very-very well cared. Polished brass has a very warm and classy look. And it gives a touch of soul to the machine's interior look.
That's how brass polishing goes. First of all I scrub the parts with a little coarse file to correct technological imperfections or deep scratches. Then sand with 400 grit sand paper. 2500 grit sand paper goes after 400 grit. Brass is a very soft metal, so there is no reason to make cross sanding with numerous different grit sand paper (400-800-1500 and so on). 2500 after 400 is good enough. The final step is polishing with a special universal polishing compound (a little green nubbin in a black box). I've upload some new photos where you'll see the process.