Hi all - new kid on the block, with his first machine - an unkempt Faema C85/1 (110 volt unit). Was 'working' when I purchased it, but tired and dirty... This last week I inspected, then removed and cleaned the boiler (citric acid bath) and lines - reassembled last evening.

So, my question has to do with this: Unit on - took very roughly 15 min to heat, and the thermostat is cycling as it should - running 1.0 - 1.2 bar, right on the money. However, if I crank the steam wand on, (machine on 30 min at this point) the tank pressure looses head in around 10 seconds - by 15 low enough pressure to let the "anti-siphon" valve (?)[ smaller pressure valve on top of the boiler ] drop... Boiler recovery: 60 seconds.

So, is this 'normal'? Seems to me the element should kick in hot enough to continue delivering steam. (but like I said, I'm new to both making espresso, and to being an espresso machine tech).

Should I test the ohms across the element posts?

... and what's considered 'good', and what's considered 'time for a new element' reading-wise?

Thanks! Joe

That's definitely not normal. You should have much more steam than that regardless of whether the elements comes on. I would guess that your boiler is either too full or your pressure gauge is not working properly.

You also might want to look at the Faema Compact/C85 user group here: http://groups.google.com/group/faema-compact-user-group.

Do you get flash boiling from the water tap? If not, I suspect the pressure gauge;

Where is the water level on the sight glass?

My logic would say since the pressurestat is kicking in and out smoothly, and the gage reads 1.0 - 1.2 bar, I'd have a hard time believing both are bad, and off by the same amount...

Oh, and the element reads 8.8 ohms, so that too is right on target...

Perhaps it just needs to be on longer to fully heat the HX... (?)

There isn't something else I'm missing, like: the element is dual voltage, or something?

>>> Not sure what you mean by "flash boiling", but it sure 'sputters' out some really hot water.
And the level in the sight glass is mid-point: right on target...

Hmmm - just a thought - since I'm doing preliminary tests 'out behind the shop', I have it on a #16 50' extension cord - might that drop voltage enough to make for slower than usual recovery?

If you purge the steam wand a few times, does it snap-out of it?

My Cimbali JR's boiler is pressure controlled, not temperature. It has a one way valve that lets extra air in as it cools when I shut it down. But that extra air gets trapped by the one-way valve as it heats up again the next time I turn it on. The extra air gives a false reading to the pressure sensor and shuts the heat off before it comes up to full temp. Each time I start my machine I purge the steam wand a few times to get out the excess air, then it comes up to full temperature -- and full steam power.

Not sure that's what your problem is, though.

The OP stated that the anti siphon valve dropped from the low pressure when steaming, so he doesn't have a "false pressure" problem.

What does the pressure gauge do as the steam drops to nothing? Does it do a rapid decline from 1.2 bar down to 0?

What does the pressure gage do as the steam drops to nothing? Does it do a rapid decline from 1.2 bar down to 0?

Pretty much. I let the steam fly a few times, and noted the drop - then let the boiler recover, cycle a few times, then timed it - 10-12 seconds from cranking the steam valve open, to steam having pretty well exhausted its self - gage near zero, and steam pressure, naturally, very weak...

BUT - keep in mind I have yet to actually use (and learn to use) the machine - so may overlook obvious stuff.
(actually, it's the wife's machine - and this is all a 'honey do'. However, this last week of playing with this really cool electro-hydro-mechanical device, has me rather interesting in learning to make great lattes)

? Thought: should there be some sort of a restriction orifice, or something, to let the steam out more slowly?
I'm sort of picturing the correct amount of steam may be in the boiler - it just all comes out in 10 seconds - cause it does steam hard; and I'm cranking the valve open in back-yard-mechanic test-it-out style. Am I only supposed to barely crack the valve? and use it as a "throttle"? or...?
(playing dumb - but on this subject... well, yeeeaaa......)

***edit: the wife tells me 'yes, you just crack the valve - not crank it open... /;' ***

????

Is there a tip on the end of the steaming wand with a few tiny holes in it?

Or is it just a threaded pipe?

And does the pipe extend most of the way to the drip tray and move back and forth or dies it only go halfway and not move at all?

If the latter, then I suspect it had the autofrother option, and the autofrother was removed. If this is the case, I'd suggest looking into getting a replacement steaming wand, which may involve a replacement valve too; I've never converted a machine, but mine has the proper wand and a friend's machine (which I'm preparing to refurbish) has the autofrothing nonsense.

Yes, the tip has 4 small holes; the wand extends and swings.

My wife will join me this morning in putting it through the paces - she'll have a much better idea of whether it's working correctly, or if the problem is me