I may be wrong but if the boiler pressure is controlled by a pressure stat then the "frequency difference" should not effect the pressure because the p-stat turns off the power when the boiler reaches the p-stat setting.

To make certain I have emailed someone in "Down Under" who should have the answers to your questions. I will keep you informed.

Cheers
Geoffrey

I don't know what kind of pressurestat you have but the Sirai pressurestat is a big, mechanical switch and not affected by Hz or polarity. It's action is regulated by the pressure in the boiler and all that does is open and close the circuit. The ones that I have used are rated for 100-240v so it should "go both ways".

I hope that this works out for you. If not, it seems like there are a lot of enthusiasts in Oz, so you could consider it an opportunity to get a cool new machine that we don't have in the USA.

MajorMajor wrote:Would you expect the pressure to be linearly proportional to the frequency difference (ie 50/60=~17% less)?

Since that's how fast the little piston goes back and forth, yes, the maximum pressure and ramp up times should be directly proportional. I think you'll have enough margin. Have a safe trip and let us know how it works out.

Hi,

I just moved from the US to Israel and am having some trouble with my 110V Rancilio Silvia.
I'm using a 2000W step-down converter to make it work with the 220V current, but it looks like the machine doesn't generate either a high enough pressure or a hot enough temperature, as shots drip extremely slowly if at all. (I descaled the machine twice with CleanCaf just to cover that angle but that didn't seem to help.)

Would appreciate any suggestions from people who've dealt with similar situations due to a relocation.

Thanks,

Ariel.

arsen13 wrote:I just moved from the US to Israel and am having some trouble with my 110V Rancilio Silvia.
I'm using a 2000W step-down converter to make it work with the 220V current, but it looks like the machine doesn't generate either a high enough pressure or a hot enough temperature, as shots drip extremely slowly if at all. (I descaled the machine twice with CleanCaf just to cover that angle but that didn't seem to help.

Hi, Ariel -

Forgive me for asking the obvious, but have you tried a coarser grind setting?

Jim

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the quick response!
Yes, I have tried that as well, but to no avail.

Ariel.

Is the flow also reduced with an empty basket? If so, then problem could be related to the 3-way valve and/or solenoid. If there is a good return flow through the short tube going back to the reservoir, yet only dripping from the group, then you should suspect the valve/solenoid and not the pump.

If you see dripping from the group, and relatively little flow through the return line to the reservoir, then suspect the pump. Does the pump sound like it's operating on the same frequency as it did previously?

If the heater indicator light on the front panel is turning off after a couple of minutes, then temperature is not the problem (the thermostat doesn't care about voltage or frequency).

Jim

Judging by the three options you described, the problem could be with the 3-way solenoid valve, but I'll have to look further into it.

Thanks for your help diagnosing the problem,

Ariel.