Nice toys you have, I should send you out my Global knives to get sharpened. My tiny 6" grinder aka buffer is pretty easy to stall out while buffer, but what the heck, it's still way better than before. If I ever get too tired of polishing it up I could send it to a local metal shop. But that would deprive me of the satisfaction by doing most of this myself.

The annealed copper washer is MUCH softer than it was when taking it out of the unit. If you guys are ever pressed in to re-using one, this should really help. Heat it up with a torch/hot plate/butane lighter until its red hot (or as close as you can get) and when it cools, its way softer. This should help it re-seal.

Mark

I make neat stuff like these.

Dave,

Those are beautiful. They look as nice, no nicer than a Dovo! It looks like you appreciate the finer things in life. The Elektra A3, hand crafted straight razors, cuban cigars and a loyal dog. The only thing I can't figure is allowing a cat in the house.

Tim386

Could you send me a PM about the sale of a Genuine Cannonfodder Razor?

Dovo, I have done a couple of them as well. Above, that is a new old stock Henckels 7/8 round point in cocobolo I did last week for someone, the other is a worked spine Dorko I did in olive for myself. I have a matching Dorko that had a crack in the toe. I reground it to a Spanish point and scaled it in Madagascar rosewood, shaves super.

This is a Dovo Bismarck I did a week or two ago for someone in cocobolo with a hand rubbed oil finish and olive wedge. I make the pins myself.



But we are now getting way off topic.

Dave, I have no intention whatsoever of EVER using (or, in my case, "attempting to use" would be more like it) a straight razor, but -- OMG -- those are beautiful! Great work . . .

Getting back to something more mundane, but on topic. I found a nice fit in OSH with the following parts. So now I don't need to drill into the plastic box and I don't have to practice my soldering on a round joint.

The down side is that clearing the output might take a couple of 90 degree corners now...clearing the volume meter might be challenging.




Now the other peeve of mine with the original design was the bolt that held the plastic drain in place requires removal of the front panel. The front panel requires removal of the foot. The foot gets rusted in place because of the plastic drain.

Instead, I went with industrial strength velcro.


So the box will seat to the side of the system and can be removed when necessary for inspection, cleaning, etc.

[Edit] whoops forgot to show off the box [/edit]

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Mark

That Velcro will hold a lot of weight, my only concern would be heat softening the adhesive if you do a boiler dump into the drip tray.

That too was my concern but I figured most of the hot water had better be draining and the velcro is fairly high up on the drain box. The lower right hand corner of the box has an indent for the bottom foot, so the hot water would not be against the side in that area.
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Mark

I had the same concern as Dave, but you're probably right. I doubt it will come completely off. However, I wouldn't be surprised if some of the adhesive on the lower part of the drain tray melts and drips down. Could turn into a nasty looking mess, but it's out of sight and easy to clean up with a little Goo Gone, so I wouldn't worry at all.

[edit]

maybe it's just the angle, but the portion of the front panel of the driptray looks really shiny in your last picture. I'd be curious to see a pic of what things are looking like now, even if that picture is of the pieces strewn about a room...

Just turned it on, the pump works and it filled with water. How about that it leaks..... but only in one place so far.



Argh, I got to test out how well the velcro holds. Pretty darn well. OK, all tightned up and ready to run again. Lets test out a couple of things. Pump out the group head seems fine.




Now to wire up the heating element and see if we get 2/3 the power of before (I'm only wiring in two of the 3 heating elements so that I can run from a 15 amp circuit for now). Hey what do you know, the heater works too drawing about 12 amps.

Now to adjust the pressure stat. What are you guys running your systems at???

Oh, and what do the two red lights on the right and left of the group head indicate?
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Mark