mhoy wrote:Zin1953:
You'll love this machine, it's a really well built system but I guess you know that. Feed it soft water! I'm so convinced that you need to feed an espresso machine softened water. (As I keep cleaning the scale off the inside of my tank).

Mark,

Had the electrician in last week (pre-arrival) to install a new, separate 20 amp circuit for the Elektra. The plumber installed a filtration/softener system I ordered from Chris' Coffee (along with the Elektra itself), and finished the installation with a hole through the granite counter

Yeah, I know -- I'm mechanically and electrically challenged. My hat's off to you to do a rebuild such as what you're doing. Me? I'd botch it up for sure! Besides, this is why God made electricians and plumbers -- so I can hire them to do things the right way the first time and thereby save me from making an a$$ out of myself!

Anyway, further explorations into the use of my Elektra will be in a new thread . . . keep up the good work, Mark -- I'm looking forward to reading of your continued efforts.

Cheers,
Jason

Jason: Congratulations, on your Elektra install! I'll be following your results carefully since I hope to be able to compare our Elektras sometime in the future.

I'm grateful for all the help this forum has provided. The wealth of knowledge spread across the globe is pretty neat. It was fun helping out Paul in New Zealand, who needed a size of a gasket. He in turn pointed out a Teflon gasket which is a great idea.

I've some work ahead of me still. Luckily the guys at MoreFlavor! (formally Fermentation Frenzy) brought some more Citric Acid from their Concord store to Los Altos for me this morning. Nice guys!! The inside of the tank is almost clean of scale, just some really stuborn places left. Once the inside is clean, I'll get to work on replacing some of the indicator lights that seem a bit crispy from the heat.

Mark

Fellow Elektra owners: You may want to occasionally remove the back badge and clean behind it. It felt like there was two way tape holding the badge in place when I pulled it off. Perhaps this was sitting beside a deep frier or something.




Mark

What are you going to do with that logo?

I think you should totally get it powdercoated in something totally flamboyant like, say, metallic hot pink.

I'm joking, but at the same time, totally serious. I would.

Well, I was thinking of keeping it white or perhaps blue. The problem is I can't figure out how to properly clean it and repaint it. The CNC milling machine is that did it was kind of rough (IMNSHO). It isn't actually flat on the back either. The side (that you can't see) are a bit rough in places too.



A quick change with gimp.



Mark

I would take it to a powdercoating place and let them do it, personally. I believe that they usually treat the metal prior to powdercoating it as well. Is the logo milled aluminum? You could get it anodised if that's the case. That would be totally awesome. I think powdercoating ought to run you $40 or $50. A friend of mine got his bike frame custom powdercoated about a year ago, and it was about $65 with the clear coat after the powdercoating.

Mark,

Thanks for putting the rebuild on HB. It's funny, I saw this on Craig's List and was so tempted to buy it (I'm in Sacramento). I already own an Elektra A3, but WOW what a deal. After, I couldn't get any of my friends to buy it, I emailed the guy to see if he still had it and you'd already bought it!

Thanks again. You're going to love this machine!

Steve

Thanks for the encouragement Steven. I'm enjoying the rebuild, I finally got the boiler clean of scale, pity I couldn't get a before and after shot of the inside.

Pressure Release Valve this morning:



Pressure Release Valve as of now:




Now there are suppose to be copper washers under the boiler level probe, pressure release valve and vacuum breaker and yet I think there are only ones under the level probe and vacuum breaker. I noticed a fair bit of teflon tape on the release valve and I think they may have replaced it at one time without the washer. On the other two, the washer seems welded to the tank.

Q1: How do I remove the old washer safely without marring the seat?
Q2: The teflon tape was a pain in the butt to remove from the threads. Should I use pipe dope, or just go without and only use it on leaky spots?
Q3: I might put some of the steam valve silicon grease on the spring to keep it from rusting. Thoughts?

Mark

mhoy wrote:Q2: The teflon tape was a pain in the butt to remove from the threads. Should I use pipe dope, or just go without and only use it on leaky spots?

Mark,

Great job on the rebuild!

Don't fear the teflon tape. I too have spent many frustrating moments picking out the remains of old teflon tape, cursing all the while, prying with dental picks, pulling at the free threads with tweezers until ... I discovered the easy way! Cut down the bristles on an old tooth brush and go hard on those tape coated threads. If you go opposite the way the tape was wound, the old tape will be out in a flash and the threads will be nice and clean, too. Give it a try.

I also e-mailed the seller a few days after you bought the machine. At first I was thinking $850 was a bit high but your making it look very worthwhile. No doubt you'll end up with a great machine at a great price. Keep the pics coming. Looking forward to your first shot results.

George

I'm not a big fan of rebuilding safety valves. You lose any calibration they had when disassembling. I always pop in a new one for the sake of $20. FWIW, the washer is a single use compression fella. These neatly crush when you torque the safety valve down. It should come out with a little gentle force and a screwdriver.

In emergencies, I have been known to reuse a valve and copper gasket. In such short term cases, I'd just wrap a bunch of teflon tape around the threads and cross my fingers.