With the help of great contributors I was able to rebuild an internally abused Elektra T1.
Elektra T1 (2005) Rebuild

There are a few continual issues that have exacerbated over a few months... I caused one of them.

Now I come to you again for your analysis, experience, and expertise.

These are three problems currently with this magnificent machine

Pressurestat is sticking and does not keep the heating element on. My temporary work around solution is to lightly tap the pressurestat or the side of the case where it is located to activate the heating element. Is there anything outside of replacing it that I can do to remedy it?


My set up feeds water with a Flo Jet. There has always been fluttering when pulling a shot or when the boiler fills. I have thought about an accumulator but what I am experiencing is a tad more extreme than ever before. During a routine descaling - I left my citric acid rich solution in the boiler for some time. This solution was fed by tank and FloJet. Now my pump flutters like it has never fluttered before. The sound from the machine's pump is horrible... The sound is dramatically different from when a shot is being dispensed to when the boiler is being filled.
Did I gunk up the machine's pump with the emulsified, syrupy, sticky citric acid solution???? [see videos]
This is how the water flowed (filling the boiler and during a shot) before I fouled it up with my citric acid solution... The third issue is that seems to be a slight leak by the pressure adjustment on the machine's pump. Should I apply some plumber tape on the threads?

I owned my share of 'fixer' machines in the past so I'll give my 2c.

RE:sticky p-stat. Try cleaning the contacts (either chemically or manually via abrasion) as a temporary solution, failing that Your P-stat is probably configured single phase so try just moving the contact pair around. Srai p-stats always have three pairs of contacts. Could also be the diaphragm is simply hard and old. Though if you're at the point of sticking it's getting towards time of replacement. Yes in theory you can replace the diaphragm but at the cost of like 50 or so dollars and re-calibrating the thing; I'd just replace it. You'll gain a better deadband in the process.

I don't have experience with a flojet set up (always direct plumb or tank) but if the pump is not a nice constant sound then there's something imperfect about the seal internally. I do recall that flojet set ups are not exactly constant pressure though. But disassembly of a procon-type pump head is not really something I'd do. Again if it bothers you, replace it.

Yes, failing a sealing goo, teflon tape is your plumbing friend.

Thanks lain2097!

I misrepresented what is occurring. It isn't sticking... Once the pressure builds it opens the contacts fine...When the circuit is closed the heating element isn't energized. I think the contacts have deposits inhibiting the closure. Maybe I'll take the most corroded pair and move them over to the middle of the pstat; it is pristine!

A ha, exactly so it seems to be simply a corroded contact. You got it just move the 'hot' pair over which is probably blackened and you should be just okay for a while longer. Did the same thing with my monster 2-group Carimali. Though I'd be thinking about replacement.

To coax a few more cycles of operation from your P-Stat's contacts.

Go to your local auto parts supply and purchase an ignition points file/burnisher. You may be successful at cleaning them up enough to get some more service out of that P-Stat. This is only a temporary solution, you will have to source a new P-Stat eventually.

Do I need to mention that you MUST disconnect power first? I really think not as I saw you rebuilt this machine yourself.

I am back in business! Switched contacts over one position on the p-stat. Everything seems to be working great!!!! Thanks again!!!!

Your mains pressure is way too high. The sixties series have a max input of 4 bar. Based on one of the video's you pressure is way too high. You need to put a regulator on your supply line and turn it down to around 3 bars.

That leak around the pump can normally be remedied by replacing the oring that's in there. Water off, remove the adjustment screw assembly and replace the oring with a metric one from the hardware store. A touch of food safe lube and you're back in business.

Should I just remove the FloJet altogether; no static water pressure? The water tank is directly underneath the Elektra.

Otherwise...this is an easy fix.

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/marine- ... inline.htm