sbenyo wrote:The only issue I still have is frothing milk to real good microfoam. It looks like everyone says they can easily get perfect microfoam but I still can't find the right way to do it...

How do you get to Carnegie Hall?

Practice, practice, practice . . .

Because the Semi is sensitive to over-packing the filter basket, it is nice to have a few basket options around. In addition to the stock 14gm basket I regularly use a vst 18gm basket and the LM triple.

Mark

da gino wrote:
Dave, I think the comments above about distilled are in reference to the advice of JimS and HB and others who suggest using distilled water in the steam boiler to avoid scaling and then using regular water for the actual coffee.

Yes, I use distilled in the boiler only. For brewing, I had been filling the reservoir with bottled spring water, but have recently switched to water filtered on-demand at my sink. Post-filtration, my calcium content is very low, but TDS reads around 95.

If you're having any issues steaming milk, it may be a good idea to eliminate any possible machine issues before putting all the blame on your technique.

If you have not already done so since taking possession of your machine, you could remove the steam wand with the unit off and cold, open the valve all the way, and probe/clean inside the valve with a Q-Tip. Crud in there might be causing low or variable steam pressure, if you suspect this might be an issue.

For regular maintenance, I periodically remove the steam tip, then the entire wand, soak them in milk frother cleaning solution, and scrub them inside and out. More frequently, I also use the steam wand vent poker on my Pallo Coffeetool--a paper clip works, too--and insert it in the holes in the tip to keep them clear.

I also found that by bumping up the boiler pressure a little, still keeping it within the recommended range, I got better milk steaming results.

dnobel wrote:For regular maintenance, I periodically remove the steam tip, then the entire wand, soak them in milk frother cleaning solution, and scrub them inside and out.

David, what kind of solution? or brand? This would apply to all wands and mine needs cleaning.
Thanks

David, what kind of solution? or brand? This would apply to all wands and mine needs cleaning.
Thanks

I use a product designed for commercial espresso machines called Euro Milan Milk Frother Cleaner that I picked up from Faema in Toronto a while back. It looks suspiciously like rebranded and diluted Urnex Rinza, which is widely available from places like espressoparts.com and is the same idea. Rinza is likely what I will reorder when I run out.

WARNING for the benefit of anyone who has not worked with the solid copper tubing that the Microcasa's steam wand is made from:

This material is much softer and more flexible than typical steel pipe or tubing and therefore relatively much easier to twist or distort if you're not very careful working with it. If you put a real kink in it, it could be permanently damaged and possibly rendered unusable.

With that in mind, always exercise extreme care when using a wrench to unscrew the steam tip from the wand. I usually attempt this disassembly while the wand is still attached to the machine; when it is held securely by the valve, it much easier to break the initial bond. However, if the tip is really stuck on there, which happens over time as the milk penetrates the joint and welds it, DON'T FORCE IT! Remove the entire wand, soak in frother cleaner for at least half an hour, rinse well, and try again. (Even after the soaking, it may be necessary to reattach the wand to the machine to get the tip off.)

--David

Great tips for steam wand cleaning!

Before I get to clean mine, I wonder if I miss something basic with my frothing technique.
Until now I used to open the steam valve all the way creating very high pressure steam to come out.

It seems that the steam is either too strong or too uneven (not coming evenly from the 3 holes) causing the stretching phase to create too many large bubble instead of tiny microfoam.
I wonder if I should start with half open valve and less steam for the stretching phase and open it all the way for circulation.

One or more steam holes are blocked or partially blocked. Elektras like foaming on full steam. If the valve is not open all the way it's like trying to boil an egg in tepid water.

Unless, of course the P/stat is set too high which is another issue.

I'll try to take off the tip and check it or even the the whole wand off for cleaning.

Is there a way to know if the P/stat is too high? Is this what the gauge is showing? Mine is consistently on the end of the yellow area.

Different gauge markings to mine but the same gauge. I suspect it's way too high as I think the green goes to 1.2 and yellow is between that and the red. Should be between .9 and 1 bar some would say. Others suggest 1.1 is also okay. I drifted the adjustment between 1 and 1.1 bar and finally settled on 1 bar as the happy point.

sbenyo wrote:I'll try to take off the tip and check it or even the the whole wand off for cleaning.

Is there a way to know if the P/stat is too high? Is this what the gauge is showing? Mine is consistently on the end of the yellow area.

You need to adjust the pressure stat screw counter clockwise in small increments, cycling between adjustments.