cannonfodder wrote:Wait until you see how much a replacement group bell costs.

Make sure you have wiped off any stray grounds from the portafilter ears and basket rim before you lock you portafilter in. The coffee will act like sandpaper and wear the parts much faster.

I always do that. But thanks.

What will a group bell cost approximately?

I just have to ask, since I don't recall after reading 4 pages of responses, how fine are you grinding, how much are you dosing, and how hard are you tamping? I had a new commercial NS portafilter in my Oscar that was in fairly tight (obviously not tight enough) but mainly I had dialed my new grinder in completely wrong, too fine, overdosed, too hard of a tamp and pressure was way to high. Blew the handle right out of there. It might also just wobble with the pressure too, is there any play in the handle where it connects to the basket? Sometimes the simplest explanations can be the right ones. You are dealing with a high amount of pressure, and possible too much pressure on the PF with a blocked 3way valve is causing it. Just other things to check first I guess.

No, none of that is the case. The portafilter tilts, it's not the connection between the handle and the basket. That would also not lead to the 'explosion'.

Also, I don't grind too fine, etc. Actually, it even happens with an underextracted shot. Espresso running faster than it should (lower pressure), and still: PFFKSSSJJJJ. So it's really either the portafilter or the group bell.

Well, the new portafilter has arrived.

Problem seems to be solved! The handle no longer moves up (even a tiny little bit down), and the motor can now choke without the portafilter 'exploding'. So it all seems normal now.

Thanks all! REALLY appreciate all the help.
Special thanks to Stefano!

You are welcome

Joep, glad to hear things are working out. Just another note, earlier in the thread you had said you were thinking of moving to a machine on which it will be easier to control the temp and has a pressure gauge. I found the following article HB on HX machines very helpful to getting consistent brewing temps on my Elektra: http://www.home-barista.com/hx-love.html.

As for the pressure gauge, the Elektra ones frequently go south anyway, and the boiler pressure doesn't really mean much. You are just shooting for a pressurestat setting that results in about 1.1 - 1.2 bar of boiler pressure when fully heated up for adequate steaming power and a reasonable range on the brew temp (to avoid having to flush too much). Once you get it set you can forget about it.

There are many Elektra owners here on HB who are always happy to help out. Many of us feel the Elektra design results in very good espresso with just a little effort. Hopefully you'll get great results too.

Enjoy your experience, James

Glad to hear it. Whatever the issue with the portafilter wings was, I am glad that it is fixed with a new one (and not a new bell).


Just out of curiosity... If you compare the wings on the two portafilters, what is the difference? Does it look like a lot from either the top view or the side view?

Enjoy your espresso!

Address7 wrote: the boiler pressure doesn't really mean much. You are just shooting for a pressurestat setting that results in about 1.1 - 1.2 bar of boiler pressure when fully heated up for adequate steaming power

I bit of clarification, the boiler pressure relates directly to the temperature of the water in the boiler, and that relates directly to the temperature of the water in the PF at the puck. Less so for say, an HX or a lever, than, say a DB.
I'm guessing that you meant to say that the starting temperature isn't that critical in a machine that can be 'adjusted' with a flush or two, yeah?
I'm also guessing that we're saying the same thing, but that I'm being a bit more CDO about it...

...the boiler pressure relates directly to the temperature of the water in the boiler, and that relates directly to the temperature of the water in the PF at the puck. Less so for say, an HX or a lever, than, say a DB.

True; I was only referring to an HX machine in the context of this thread; the recommendation for boiler pressure of 1.1 - 1.2 bar being a pretty good recommendation for the Elektra home series (actually, I think others recommend 0.9 - 1.1 bar for the Elektras); I meant no implications outside of these machines. We agree that flushing can be used to arrive at the correct starting temperature for brewing. So, we're basically saying the same thing.

Thanks though for giving me an opportunity to clarify; sometimes all the context is in my head, and never makes it to the comment!

Address7 wrote:Thanks though for giving me an opportunity to clarify; sometimes all the context is in my head, and never makes it to the comment!

No, really, my pleasure. I figured that you were talking specifics in reference to the machine being discussed. I just wanted to make sure, and to indicate to anyone else that was just cruising by that that was a specific, and not a general statement.
And, to make sure that I was still tracking! ; >