Elektra Semiautomatica not heating

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
Bkeef
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Joined: 13 years ago

#1: Post by Bkeef »


I have a practically new Elektra that appears to not be heating.

Boiler tank is primed and I am getting a light showing heat but elements appear to not be working.

It's got to be something simple as this thing is like brand new.
Removed bottom panel and reset switch is not tripped.

Let me know if there is something I'm missing
Thanks
Brian

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algue
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#2: Post by algue »

I think that if you see the heating light on, the heating element should receive voltage.
If it was a reset switch issue, you should not see the light.
Did you check with a multimeter if you can see voltage at the contacts of the heating element?
If so, the heating element could be the problem
alberto

Bkeef (original poster)
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#3: Post by Bkeef (original poster) »

Yeah I agree. If light is on then heat should be enabled

I didnt have a meter with me but will try and check. I hate to blind order parts as this had to be something simple

As a non electrical type , would set voltmeter to. 120 and would measure output off contractor correct ?
Thanks
Brian

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homeburrero
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#4: Post by homeburrero »

I believe that some MCALs are wired so that the light is powered even if the protective thermoswitch is tripped or burnt open. (for example, this one, and this one.) So it may be worth checking that if you aren't sure.

(Might be useful if you could post a picture of the underside of yours with a good view of the wires.)

You can safely do some tests with the machine unplugged. With the wires disconnected from the thermoswitch you should see good continuity across the two thermoswitch terminals. If you don't, try pressing the reset button and measuring again.

To check the element, disconnect the wires and measure the resistance between the two element terminals. It should be a value in the neighborhood of 15 ohms. A burnt-out element will show a high (probably infinite or OL) resistance. While you are at it you can also check that you have infinite resistance between either element terminal and the element base, but this is not a conclusive test for a short. A better test for shorts is to use the machine on a tested and working GFCI outlet; if it has a short it will trip the GFCI.
Pat
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algue
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#5: Post by algue »

you are right talking about MCAL
but the machine we are talking about is not a MCAL
(the title of the thread is not correct)
I can see two buttons from the photo, one of them to activate the pump
It is a Microcasa Semiautomatica.
alberto

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homeburrero
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#6: Post by homeburrero »

algue wrote:but the machine we are talking about is not a MCAL
(the title of the thread is not correct)
Good catch, Alberto. I didn't look carefully at that photo. When I see posts like this I'm always optimistic that it's an easy to replace thermoswitch. Probably not the case here. But I think my unplugged troubleshooting advice may still apply? (I think it uses the same ~800 watt / ~15 ohm element as the MCAL, no?)

Brian: Might be good to change the thread title.
Pat
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Bkeef (original poster)
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#7: Post by Bkeef (original poster) »

Here is a pix with bottom off. I know very little about electrical so baby steps.

Thanks for the help
Regards
Brian


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howard seth
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#8: Post by howard seth »

Did you push in the yellow reset button on the bottom of your semi? Try it again, perhaps - if you have not already. Your machine looks in beautiful condition.
After 8 years - and various leaks - mine looks inside like an old rusted freighter - still working, though - after many assorted pressure stat and other replacements.
Howie

Bkeef (original poster)
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#9: Post by Bkeef (original poster) »

Yeah this machine is literally brand new. A friend of mine won this thing years ago in some door prize and had it in storage. He doesnt drink coffee so he gave it to me. It has been used less than 10-15 times. Its a second machine for me and i usually keep it at my other place. I dont really have a use for it but i want it to be right.

I did press the reset but it didn't appear to be tripped. I am going to borrow a multimeter from work and see if i can try the suggestions above. Its got to be something simple.

B

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homeburrero
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#10: Post by homeburrero »

Here's where you want to measure (machine unplugged.) I can't tell for sure from the pic, but believe the light is wired so that it is only on when your element is powered (goes off if the thermoswitch trips.) So the thermoswitch is probably good. The 15 Ohm value is calculated based on 800 watts at 110 volts. Actual value could be a couple ohms different. Is best to disconnect the wires (make notes or marks so you get them back the way they were!) before measuring.


If the resistances are good, then you need to look hard for a bad connection or bad wire to the element.

Here's another thread on the same symptom, turned out to be a burnt element. Has some good info on replacing the element if it comes to that. Elektra Semiautomatica SXC will not heat up.
Pat
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