The boiler ran dry without the red level control light ever illuminating. The flow, through the group, is fine, so water is making it to the machine. I have a few guesses, as to the problem, but don't want to guess wrong; there is a heating element at stake.

Unlike an Astoria, for instance, the A3 can't easily fill the boiler without the heating element on; a design flaw in my opinion. It risks damage to the element when an A3 has a problem like the problem my machine is having.

Hi Doug,
Given your last thread where the unit was overfilling, and the red light was illuminating, I would guess you have a problem with the control card. You'll need to double check all the inputs, output, feed and ground to the card before condemning it. Assuming it has a conventional autofill circuit, you will have to check the autofill probe, autofill solenoid coil and plunger, pilot lamp, and all associated wiring for continuity and voltage.
One trick I use for solenoids is when energized, a small steel screwdriver should be attracted to the end of the cartridge post where the coil retaining nut is located. If there is magnetism there, one can move on to the cartridge itself and check for binding plunger or tired seals.
Of course nothing electrical, beyond the most obvious, can be pinpointed without a good digital multimeter and the ability to use it properly. Do you have one? If not, it would be a very good investment. After wearing-out my sixth career multimeter, I picked up a Klein MM200 meter from Home Depot for less than $50. I'm so far very happy with it. Let us know what you find, as I'm sure you will. Good luck

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your help. I hadn't considered the control card, but it makes sense; seems any other scenario would have involved more than one thing.
Nice idea for solenoid testing, I'll give it a try. I've got a multimeter somewhere; haven't used it since rebuilding the 1993 T1 a few years ago, but I'm sure it's around.

Unlike an Astoria, for instance, the A3 can't easily fill the boiler without the heating element on; a design flaw in my opinion.

What makes you say that? Does not your vintage Elektra have a three position main power switch? (off, on 1, on 2)

No. The sixties series (a3/T1) have a single position off/on switch. The first thing the machine does when you power it on is call for water. The rotary pumps on these will fill the boiler in seconds so the chance of an exposed element overheating and bursting is low unless you have some kind of malfunction

OK, thanks Dave . . . you learn something new all the time.

It risks damage to the element when an A3 has a problem like the problem my machine is having.

Then, Doug, the very first thing I would do is disconnect the heating element until this problem is 100% solved.

And the second item would be to see if a three position power switch can be easily retrofitted.

Now it seems likely, the water blast, described in the Elektra A3 erupts thread, caused something to short out the control card, because, even with the probe wire disconnected, there is no pump noise and the level control light doesn't illuminate.

That is not good. Open the machine up, take the cover off the control box and let it air out for a week then try it again. Could be moisture in the brain box. If not, then an email to Stefano is in order.

Done. Makes sense; good suggestion.
Thanks Dave.