Hello everyone,

I wanted to use this thread as a place for me to ask you questions (and vice versa) as I embark on a rebuild of this 1988 single group commercial Elektra machine. If anyone can identify it with a name, I will update the thread title.



A few observations based on this photo:
- I have already removed the cup tray; it slides off at the top.
- The boiler side of the pressure gauge appears to be broken, and the entire gauge will likely need replacement (normal people like me can't rebuild these, right?).
- Cosmetically, from the outside, the machine looks good (a few days in superpower detergent wouldn't hurt the steam wand, though)
- There's a local company to call on the service sticker who might have parts

The only identifying plate (other than the Elektra badge on the back):



This confirms that the machine truly is set up for 110V, but while the plug is "normal" for 15A (no horizontal side of the plug), I will feel safer running it from a plug in my kitchen (wired up for 20A according to my breaker box).

I plan to do a "is anything working" test once I can hook a T into the line under my kitchen sink, and I'll use the hole in the sink where the spray nozzle comes out (after capping off the outlet for that from under the sink - if I don't, I imagine that I'll find a big puddle under the sink any time that I open the faucet).

I hope that I can document this rebuild thoroughly enough that it can be a resource to others (though I've never seen this particular machine here on HB). The internals look just like the Sixties models that people have:


Yeah, that'll need some cleaning...

I'll be looking for some citric acid and a big bucket in the near future (first stop: Home Depot). There's a ton of rust all over the frame, and I will probably have to send that for powder-coating (based on what I've read in other rebuild threads). I've been amazed with the ease of disassembly so far, but I'm afraid to touch any of the internal bolts due to rust and scale deposits. Does anyone have a tip for dealing with the rust before I strip what's left of some of the screws and bolts?

Thank you for following along, and I hope to have a nice machine to show after a few months of work. I say a few months because I won't be working on this machine every hour of every day, but I want to get it done sooner than later.

$100?! That's my kind of price. Congratulations. I was a bit shocked when I saw the inside compared to the outside - but that's what time will do. I have my T1 stripped to the frame (and a Rancilio Z9 frame in pieces as of this afternoon), and almost got the chance to paint both of them today. Ignoring that diversion, I looked into powder coating the frame, but then I bought a $20 kit from TCP Global that has everything you need for a small job (including gloves, and brushes). Ah, found it: POR-15 Super Starter Kit. I'll let you know how it goes. Good luck on the rebuild, and do keep us posted.

-phillip

Stefano would know for sure but I think that is the predecessor of the 60's series A3, and I want to say it was an A2 or A1. Then again, I could be completely out in left field.

Random idea (just had to jot it down here) - why not replace the motor with a gear motor (as Ross did in this thread) so I can play around with pressure profiling? Even before that, I will probably install some kind of controller or switch to at least get line pressure preinfusion (and later, if I can handle a new motor purchase, I'll try the profiling).

Thanks for the tips so far!

Can someone confirm if I should start this project by trying to hook up the machine to power and water as is and seeing how leaky it is and what parts of the electronics are working? I think I know what sounds will indicate a seized pump (whiny hmmmmmmmm from the motor), and I'll have the machine sitting over a plastic bag in case it decides to leak.

I would disconnect the leads to the heating element(s) and wrap some electrical tape around each connector to keep them isolated. Remove the safety valve on the top of the boiler in case the auto-fill circuitry doesn't close the solenoid or the solenoid is faulty. Then you can hook up power and water and check to see if your solenoids are working. Does the auto-fill solenoid starts filling the boiler. This will also exercise the pump - hopefully it will be working enough to get you this far. Check to see if you can dispense water from the group. If the 3-way solenoid looks to be in good shape, then it probably still works, but it will still need a good cleaning.

With the boiler partially filled (enough to cover the element - fill through the safety valve opening if the auto-fill didn't work), you can test the heating element. Unplug the machine, reconnect the leads to the element and then plug back in and turn on. If you start hearing the water starting to heat and feel the bottom of the boiler getting warm, the element is good.

This will help you identify any big-ticket items that might need replacing (motor, pump, solenoids, element). But once you get this far, you're going to want to start stripping it all down. The standard advice applies: take more photos than you think you'll need so you can get things back together again.

Ross: thank you very much for your reply, that was exactly the guide that I needed. I'll stop by Home Depot this evening once I figure out how everything works under my sink. I will try to use a hose clamp to attach the black input hose (seen in the first photo) from the machine to the plumbing, and I'll submit an update once I'm able to power up (*if* I'm able to power up).

Thanks again!

Looks to be an interesting project. The copper pieces you take off look different from different angles and as been already mentioned, take a lot of pictures. Put a ton of light on it so you can zoom in a look at details that may become important later in the re-build.

Mark

Thanks Mark. Your rebuild thread has been a great source of info as I dive deeper into this machine!

Minor setback: plumbing. Home Depot didn't have a Tee that would let me hook into the cold water under the kitchen sink, so I'll wait a few days to get this from Chris. It'll be a long few days!

Along those lines, I hacked together a solution for the machine end of the water line. The machine uses a hose clamp to connect the water input hose to a ribbed nozzle, which is pressed into a gasket by a nut (that's the best way that I can describe not knowing any of the real terms). The hacked together part was forcing the 1/4" plastic tube onto the nozzle and fastening the hose clamp around the plastic tubing. Anyone have a suggestion for replacing that entire nozzle setup? I don't think I'll have much luck on this at Home Depot because of the metric threads.

Pictures of what you are doing would solve the lack of proper plumbing terms (not that if you used them I'd be any wiser either).

I used some plastic hose from OSH that I pressed over the water intake and dropped into a 5 gallon bucket of water raised to the level of the pump with as much water in the tube as I could manage. Numerous threads have said be careful of an empty water pump or cavitation due to lack of water. I found that it sucked up the water pretty quickly and for 15-30 seconds at a time it was OK. Heck the pump can be rebuilt for a reasonable price so I didn't let that part slow me down.

Do disconnect the power to the heater core though. I can imagine replacements being hard to come by.

Mark