Dedicated power line, a must or bonus?

November 1st, 2009, 9:07 pm

I started to look into commercial espresso machines for home use and have a question regarding its power requirement. For some of them, 20 amp dedicated power line is recommended. For home use, does that mean it's a must have otherwise it won't work or will it work with 15 amp line but not as fast to meet the commercial demand?

#2: Post by HB » November 1st, 2009, 9:49 pm

If the unit is rated at 20 amps, that means it could draw up to 20 amps. If you wire it into a 15 amp circuit and it draws more than 15 amps, the circuit breaker should trip. Perhaps you refer to this on 1st-line's website:

1st-line wrote:It is also the most powerful machine in its class with 1900 watts of power. We certainly recommend a 20-amp circuit and appropriate wiring to supply electrical power to this machine.

I don't understand the "we certainly recommend" part since my math says this machine will draw more than 15 amps. A 20 amp circuit is required, unless you're comfortable with routinely overloading a 15 amp circuit (I'm not).

The La Spaziale Vivaldi II and the Izzo Alex are double boiler models that have switches that prevent both heating elements from turning on at the same time, enabling them to be plugged into a 15 amp circuit. That means they'll be slower to warm up both boilers (because one goes first, then the other instead of both at the same time), and they'll recover slightly slower when steaming. I used the Vivaldi in economy mode during the review and the difference for home use was negligible.

#3: Post by **godlyone** » November 1st, 2009, 9:58 pm

Dan,

Isn't it also true that most machines can be rewired to use only part of the heating coil and thus draw less current? Of course it would take longer to heat up and longer to recover... but for the home-barista this shouldnt be that big of a deal?

#4: Post by **espressme** » November 1st, 2009, 10:04 pm

When everything on a machine is running, the information listed on the badge is the minimum current rating required of any circuit that gives it power.

The average modern circuit in houses is 115volts@ 20 Amps. Many older home are only 15 amps and some are knob and tube for much of the wiring with screw in fuses as a safety device. There are many homes and apartments with less than a 100Amp service for the entire living area.. Many older pre 1970 homes have only a small portion of their wiring brought up to code. Get licensed help to assure that you are not creating a serious future problem. If you are considering buying a prosumer machine, some may need 220 volts and 20+ amps to operate properly.
Remember also that you are, in effect purchasing a full time extra hot water heater. Do not place it next to a refrigerator or wine cooler. Also plan to have some way to vent the excess heat from the immediate area.

If you do not know what the ratings of the wiring in your home are, get an electrician to check it out.
Were I planning a circuit for a new large espresso machine I would plan to have three or more 20 amp 115 volt outlets. At the same time I would install a 30 Amp 220 VAC line to power any future purchase.
With two large machines and grinders plus the flojet pump, a timer, and a lamp, I have tapped out all my outlets on and under one counter.

-Richard

#5: Post by **Juanjo** » November 1st, 2009, 11:20 pm

depending of how big the heat element is you may need a dedicated line..

I had a SanRemo Capri with a 1950W heat element, and in summer time the first 30minutes when the heat element was ON was a nightmare for the circuit breaker, even the dedicated line.. 15amp is just not enough.

BUT. depending of the gauge cables in your fuse box may be an easy thing to change a 15amp breaker for a 20amp.. BY A PROFESSIONAL of course...

I would not even take as an option make a machine work at less than its designed power.

Juanjo

#6: Post by **Stuggi** » November 2nd, 2009, 3:52 pm

This is why I love Finland so much, 16 A 220VAC straight into the kitchen, and 380VAC 3x16A under the stove if I need it.

#7: Post by **shadowfax** » November 2nd, 2009, 4:58 pm

Stuggi wrote:This is why I love Finland so much, 16 A 220VAC straight into the kitchen, and 380VAC 3x16A under the stove if I need it.

As a matter of interest, Gizmodo posted an interesting, accessible article on the state of power plugs worldwide. It goes into the history of AC frequency and voltage in various municipal electrical systems, and is a reasonably worthwhile read:

Gizmodo wrote:In Europe-Germany, specifically-a company called BEW exercised their monopoly to push things a little further. They settled somewhat arbitrarily on a 50Hz frequency, but more importantly jacked voltages up to 240, because, you know, MORE POWER. And so, the 240 standard slowly spread to the rest of the continent.

#8: Post by **stefano65** » November 2nd, 2009, 5:18 pm

size of wires are rated according to the load that they will handle, the length of the run, the resistance that they will created by the foot etc etc
so are breakers,
a local electrical supplier should provide you with some basic guidelines
in some cases the breaker can be under code from the wire size,
for example,
if you have in a particular circuit
size 12 or greater (10 awg) wires and a 15 amp breaker you can replace the breaker with a 20 amp
if you have a 14 not,
It is a must not only a suggestion to follow the wiring size/amp guidelines,
an over load circuit will trip the breaker in the better scenario
BUT if the breaker is old for example, it could became less sensitive and not trip,
which will over heat the wires and can cause fire
house wire not good

#9: Post by **Psyd** » November 2nd, 2009, 5:33 pm

It seems that in most cases, you either know the answers or should consult a professional. NFPA and Federal Government estimates place the blame on faulty wiring for 24% of fires in the workplace, 18% of church fires, and 28% of home fires in urban areas.

Don't be that guy.