Crossland CC1 Showing Error Code E1

#1: Post by **cafefrappe** » July 29th, 2015, 8:55 pm

Hi all,

I found a related thread here but wasn't able to post on it.
I've had my CC1 for over 2 years, and I am getting an E1 error code. The boiler doesn't reacher the right temperature within one hour, it actually seems like it is not heating up at all.
I've contacted Bill Crossland. He helped me troubleshoot and I found out there is no voltage between the two terminals on the boiler (see picture).

I haven't heard back from him in over two months, so if someone had the same issue and managed to fix it, some help would be greatly appreciated.

#2: Post by **cmin** » July 29th, 2015, 9:33 pm

So you have no voltage at all or just to the boiler/heater? Honestly not sure there, but I'm no electrician lol. Have you tried contacting Bill again? That's odd to not hear back unless your email got lost or missed, as he generally is fast to respond.

I was cleaning my CC1 and took the top and tray off to clean so I can check inside later or in the morning.

#3: Post by **ira** » July 30th, 2015, 1:10 am

In the picture, there is a part connected to the black wire. See if there is voltage across it. It's a thermal fuse and sometimes they open and cause this problem. The black wire is the switched voltage so if my first suggestion doesn't solve the problem, measure from the white wire to every point on the black wire as you follow it back to the source. For me the thermal fuse is all I can see but the wire on the other end of it goes to something else and so on till it reaches the power cord.

Tell us where the power appears and we can probably do a better job of helping.

Ira

July 30th, 2015, 2:33 pm

Thanks a lot for your help!
Last time I checked, there was voltage across the thermal fuse.
I make the other suggested measurements when I get home tonight.

#5: Post by **FirstBetta** » July 30th, 2015, 3:45 pm

If you have voltage across the thermal fuse it is open (it has failed) and needs to be replaced. Voltages appear across open circuit components. An intact thermal fuse would show zero voltage. If any other component, thermostat as an example, in the heater circuit has failed there MAY not be any voltage at the fuse.

Unplug the machine, then measure the resistance of the fuse. If there is no resistance it needs to be replaced. The only place voltage drop should appear with power applied to the circuit is across an open circuit (switch in the off position) or a failed component.

#6: Post by **homeburrero** » July 30th, 2015, 3:48 pm

ira wrote:In the picture, there is a part connected to the black wire. See if there is voltage across it. It's a thermal fuse and sometimes they open and cause this problem.

cafefrappe wrote:Last time I checked, there was voltage across the thermal fuse.

Note: If the fuse is bad (burnt open) and the machine plugged in and switched on, there would be measurable voltage across the two ends of that thermofuse. If properly working you would not see a significant voltage drop across the two ends of the fuse.

Generally, and always if you lack expertise in electrical safety, it's best to troubleshoot with the machine unplugged. With the machine unplugged use the ohmmeter / continuity tester. If you see no continuity between one side and the other of that fuse you know right off that it's burnt open.

P.S.
That fuse and the end wires would normally be covered by an electrical insulator and clamped close to the boiler, as in this picture. I assume you have removed the clamp and slipped back the insulation just to take that picture? I believe those little exposed fuse wires are live/hot - so you need to be extra careful that they don't touch anything (and you don't touch them!) when the machine is plugged in.

*Edit addition - I posted this before seeing FirstBetta's post. Good to see we agree!

#7: Post by **FirstBetta** » July 30th, 2015, 3:59 pm

Your picture clears up a question that I have about the tapped hole in the original picture. The clamp holding the thermal fuse to the boiler was removed for clarity I guess.

July 30th, 2015, 6:14 pm

I assume you have removed the clamp and slipped back the insulation just to take that picture?

That's right.

If you have voltage across the thermal fuse it is open (it has failed) and needs to be replaced.

That indeed appears to be the issue. Now I need to see what type of fuse to buy and how to replace it. Is that something I should/could do myself?

Thank you both for your quick responses! It gives me hope that my CC1 will be back on track soon.

#9: Post by **ira** » July 30th, 2015, 11:28 pm

You're local, so if you can ge the thermal fuse, I can help you replace it. Does it have writing on it?

Ira

August 5th, 2015, 11:24 pm

Thanks for offering! I tried to find the thermal fuse around here (south OC) but was unsuccessful. I am going to order it online and will let you know if I have trouble replacing it.