Converting a pourover espresso machine to direct connect

by **LeoZ** on Wed Aug 02, 2006 2:53 pm

has anyone tried or know if the isomac direct connect system will work with the giotto? I was just on the phone with chriscoffee, about to order that new grinder and either this or the float kit. i prefer the direct connect, but they are unsure if it would work.
thanks for the help!
Leo

by HB on Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:39 pm

The short answer: I've never installed any of these kits on a Giotto Premium. But I have tinkered with my own direct plumb setup and can offer some insight. With that caveat, what follows is the long answer...

Chris' Coffee sells two direct connection kits and one float kit. The two direct connection kits work essentially the same: A normally closed solenoid piggybacks on the pump terminal connectors. When the pump activates, the solenoid opens. Each kit includes a pressure regulator. Technically vibratory pumps are designed to operate with no inlet pressure, but apparently they tolerate modest pressure without long-term issues.

The float kit works like your typical toilet tank, i.e., a small float controls a valve and keeps the reservoir filled:

Image courtesy of Chris' Coffee Service (Float System)

My espresso machine wasn't direct plumbed using either of Chris' kits since it came from 1st-line, but the hookup is the same: Main water inlet -> filter system (optional) -> pressure regulator -> solenoid -> pump -> espresso machine. The rest are details about the fittings and connections. Back to your original question, will either of these kits work with your Giotto Premium? My answer is a qualified "yes". I qualify it because they are not "plug and play" solutions specifically designed for your machine. I've installed the direct connect kit for the Andreja Premium as part of its Buyer's Guide writeup:

Image courtesy of Chris' Coffee Service (Andreja Premium Direct Connect Kit)

The parts are straight from the factory and instructions are detailed and easy to follow. Chris' other direct connect kit is shown below:

Image courtesy of Chris' Coffee Service (Direct Connect System)

I've not installed one of these, but the same parts are there (solenoid, pressure regulator, fittings), simply adapted and documented for a specific group of machines. This isn't rocket science, but as you found talking to their technicians, they can't assure the kit works for your machine. I believe a competent do-it-yourself'er could adapt either of the two direct connect kits to just about any vibratory pump espresso machine. The float system depends on clearances that can make it tricky, as Dave documented in Quit Filling That Water Tank, but it would probably work well too.

Speaking hypothetically, if I were to buy one of the direct connection kits to apply to vibe espresso machine X, which would I choose? The kit designed for the Andreja Premium is a little more expensive, but includes braided stainless steel wrapped tubing, a better pressure regulator, pressure gauge, and a smart design that is nearly universal - the usual "main inlet -> pressure regulator -> solenoid" sequence ends with a barbed fitting that accepts the standard silicone tubing used as inlet hoses for every reservoir machine I've seen. You set the output pressure so low (0.5 ~bar, IIRC) that you can simply slip the pump's tank hose right onto the direct plumb barb fitting. When I was evaluating the Andreja Premium, I used the direct connect kit and switched it back and forth several times between direct and tank in less than a minute (the back shell of the Andreja has enough clearance to accommodate the fittings and solenoid while allowing enough room for the tank).

PLEASE NOTE: I'm not saying that any of these kits will work straight out of the box. I'm not saying what modifications, if any, would be necessary. I'm not saying that it would work specifically with your Giotto Premium. I am certain that Chris' Coffee will say the same thing - except more emphatically - and will add reminders that they do not give refunds on parts and will not offer free assistance. However, it's my educated guess that the Andreja Direct Connect kit could be adapted by a competent do it yourself'er with little difficulty. The Isomac Direct Connect kit could also be adapted too, but I think it would be slightly more difficult because it lacks the nifty barb fitting and pressure gauge included with the other kit.

DISCLAIMER: THIS POST IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I WILL BEAR NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY PLUMBING FAILURES, INJURIES, OR LOSSES RESULTING FROM ANY ATTEMPT TO PERFORM ANY MODIFICATION YOU UNDERTAKE. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT ALL PLUMBING INSTALLATIONS MUST BE INSPECTED FOR CONFORMANCE WITH YOUR LOCAL CITY BUILDING CODES AS REQUIRED BY YOUR LOCAL ORDINANCE, HOME INSURER, ETC. MODIFYING YOUR ESPRESSO MACHINE WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY VOID ITS WARRANTY.

by **cannonfodder** on Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:59 pm

I added the float to my Isomac; Quit Filling That Water Tank! documented the process. It served me well and the quick disconnect, move the machine and use it somewhere else in pour over mode, then back home and reconnect is wonderful.

by **miKe mcKoffee** on Wed Aug 02, 2006 9:04 pm

cannonfodder wrote:I added the float to my Isomac; Quit Filling That Water Tank! documented the process. It served me well and the quick disconnect, move the machine and use it somewhere else in pour over mode, then back home and reconnect is wonderful.

Did the same when I had my Silvia. Can be convenient being able to use it either auto-fill or pour over modes.

by **LeoZ** on Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:03 pm

Dan, excellent reply! I'll have to bookmark this now b/c it qualifies as part of my 'invaluable espresso info' bookmarks.

Cannonfodder, ive seen your article and its part of what inspired me. I think the draining issue actually bothers me more, but I'm guessing its going to be too big of a project to attempt so I'll either wait for a machine upgrade or till its a bit more aged.

one question for you - if you dont want to use it any more, are you stuck with leaving the float in, or can you plug the whole with standard fittings?

Anyway, I wound up ordering the toilet bowl kit. (and the new quickmill grinder..hehehehe) My reasoning is that it will be easier for me to attempt to de-calcify when the time comes, as i can just fill the tank. also didnt want to chance problems with the opv, i think that could be an issue with more pressure behind it, like dan mentioned. well, ill see how the float works. if it is a problem maybe i can recoup some money and try the direct connect. for now, its definitely a worthwhile upgrade! now its time to cut my main house pipe open and get a tee on there so i can tie into this new system.

by **cannonfodder** on Thu Aug 03, 2006 10:00 am

I have moved that machine from my kitchen to my office. I disconnected the line from the float and left it in the tank. When you fill the tank just stop short of the float (one reason I mounted it high in the tank) or fill it all the way. The float will raise as you fill it closing off the valve. I have never had it leak or drip. You could remove it and put a cap in the hole, but as I said, I just left it in.

by **LeoZ** on Thu Aug 03, 2006 10:46 am

cannonfodder wrote:I have moved that machine from my kitchen to my office. I disconnected the line from the float and left it in the tank. When you fill the tank just stop short of the float (one reason I mounted it high in the tank) or fill it all the way. The float will raise as you fill it closing off the valve. I have never had it leak or drip. You could remove it and put a cap in the hole, but as I said, I just left it in.

did you drill a hole in the bottom of the machine to snake the hose through?

by **cannonfodder** on Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:00 pm

No, the Isomac Millennium has a hole out the bottom already. It was made as a pour over but with the option of a direct connect. So the plumbing holes are already there.

by **LeoZ** on Sat Aug 05, 2006 12:57 am

just wanted to reply and close this out in case anyone is searching. float kit installed today; it went decently. the giotto seems to be made for it, there is a tab on the steel reservoir frame, and a hole at the bottom of the case for the tube. the tab didnt help much since its a small one at the top of the frame, and i needed it down another 1-2", so i removed the reservoir frame. this made the tank difficult to seat properly on the intake valve, and the only support it now has is via the rods across the top resting on the frame top. it was also hard to get the back panel on. I had to disconnect the tube from the valve outside the tank, remove the tank and the tubing, tighten the rear panel, and slip everything back in. the tank no longer removes on its own b/c of the clearance from the float kit, so the top panel has to come out with it.

looking at the guts of the machine more today, im pretty sure a direct connect kit would work just fine. its all rubber tubing, so just clamping the adapter on, if it doesnt fit, should work fine. either way, man this makes life easy

fyi - reduced brew pressure again, from 9 to 8 this time. THIS is where its at. zero bitterness! im surprised i had to this low, but so far, really good stuff

i hope it doesnt get too flat. ill have to test in the morning with a fresh palate.

by **Spirit72** on Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:48 pm

Just wanted to let everyone know that it is very easy to convert a poor over Quickmill Anita to direct connect using a Andreja Premium Direct Connect Kit.

The internals of the Quickmill Anita is very similar to the Quickmill Andreja. The only main difference is that the Andreja come with all the predrilled holes.

For my Anita I have drilled three holes:

The first hole in the back of the machine for the water supply and the solenoid valve.
The second one into the front wall.
The third one directly in front of the second hole into the drip tray.

The second and third holes are for the discharge tube that comes from the expansion valve, from its original position, in the water tank to its new location into the drip tray.

Also for the Anita there is only one magnetic float switches, so just ignore the second one shown with the Andreja.

The installation instruction that came with the Andreja kit from Chris Coffee are detailed and was very easy to follow even for my Anita.

I bought my machine in January 2008 so I don't know if there is any difference with older Anita.

by **Spirit72** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 1:19 am

Direct connect Anita, how to do it:

1. Remove the outer shell

2. Drill a hole in the back of the outer shell.

3. Install the solenoid valve to the back of the outer shell.

4. Disconnect the magnetic float switch and jump the switch with the jumper provided.

5. Attach the black plastic tube provide with the kit to the discharge tube going into the tank.

The discharge tube is the one coming from the tee shown bellow

What you are doing is rerouting the discharge tube that comes from your expansion valve, from it's original position, in the water tank and diverting it to the drip tray.

6. Drill a hole into the front panel and into the drip tray to install the black plastic discharge tube.
I have used the rubber grommet provided with the kit into the hole of the front panel for the installation of the black plastic discharge.

7. Remove the two wire on the pump and install the wire harness provided with the kit. The end with the piggyback connectors go onto the pump.

Reattach the two wires you originally took off the pump to the piggyback connectors.

8. Pull the green connection off the terminal block.

Connect the green piggyback connector to the connection on the terminal block and slide the green connector you took off to the piggyback connector.

9. Now it's time to connect the other end of the wire harness to the solenoid valve at the back of the cover. Connect also the silicone tube to the barbed top of the solenoid valve.

10. Put the outer shell back on.

11. Connect the braided water line to the fitting protruding from the back panel.

12. Connect to the water supply and adjust the water regulator between 0.5 and 0.75 bar.

Enjoy!

by **Beezer** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 2:19 am

Wow, great description and pictures. Thanks for posting that.

So, I assume you have it hooked up to a water softener/filter system as well? Did you get that from Chris too?

by **Spirit72** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:29 pm

My first step was to direct connect my Anita. I was not 100% certain that it would work out. I have search many forum and I could not find anyone who have done it before. Now that it's done, my next upgrade is to install a water softener/filter system as well.

by **Beezer** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:02 pm

Yup, I wouldn't wait too long to install that filter/softener if I were you. Scale buildup is not your friend.

How hard was it to drill holes in the stainless steel case? Seems like you'd need a special bit at least to get through the metal.

by **Spirit72** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:50 pm

Drilling holes in the stainless steel was easy. Regular steel bit for metal will do the job.

I have use my drill press for the holes in the casing and the drip tray.

For the hole in the front panel I have use my cordless drill.

The water filtration system will be install shortly.

by **pdx** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:23 pm

LeoZ wrote:just wanted to reply and close this out in case anyone is searching. float kit installed today; it went decently.

Careful- I had the float kit installed on an Isomac in my kitchen for a couple of years. One day the pressurestat stuck on, melted all kinds of parts, and the float valve flooded my kitchen. It was a total mess. This was what finally convinced me to step up to a really well-built machine with redundant safety systems, designed to be plumbed in.

by **Rybolt** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:54 pm

pdx wrote:One day the pressurestat stuck on, melted all kinds of parts, and the float valve flooded my kitchen. It was a total mess.

If I did this, I would probably have a shut-off valve on the inbound water line, that I would shut-off nightly. I know not everyone prefers this, but I don't like the idea of a.) my machine being on b.)some after market plumbing assembly being active while I am in bed or away from home. I currently only have my machine on when I am home/awake.

pdx wrote: This was what finally convinced me to step up to a really well-built machine with redundant safety systems, designed to be plumbed in.

p..s curious to know what you found that met this criteria?

by **pdx** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:07 pm

Rybolt wrote:pIf I did this, I would probably have a shut-off valve on the inbound water line, that I would shut-off nightly.

Inconvenient, but probably a great idea.

Rybolt wrote:p..s curious to know what you found that met this criteria?

Synesso Cyncra 110v.

by **Rybolt** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:10 pm

Spirit72 wrote:5. Attach the black plastic tube provide with the kit to the discharge tube going into the tank.
<image>

The discharge tube is the one coming from the tee shown bellow
<image>

What you are doing is rerouting the discharge tube that comes from your expansion valve, from it's original position, in the water tank and diverting it to the drip tray.

Thanks for the walk through! I have a couple questions (prob. trivial).

1. Why do we have to reroute the discharge tube?
2. The hole drilled in the back (lower right hand corner if facing the back) is just to "mount" the solenoid valve? I am confused on the water path. Can't determine from pics why there are 2 holes in back?

p.s. Anyway you could scan the installation instructions that came with it to PDF and post?

Thanks.

by **networkcrasher** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:59 pm

Rybolt wrote:p..s curious to know what you found that met this criteria?

This is what I ended up with (main website here - note the leak controller is the one I have - not the CX). I also purchased an extra leak sensor. I have one sensor under my machine on the counter top (on top of a paper towel to widen the "sensor's" area of detection), as well as one under my filters in the cabinet below. Works like a champ upon testing. The unit can be manually operated to shut off mains for changing filters, and the other neat feature is it will sound an alarm if the battery is dying, if the unit has not been tested for 2 years, or if the unit has detected water. It's a spring loaded valve, so there's no mechanically driven actuator inside, just a "catch."

John Guest connections to boot.


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