Ken Fox wrote:My machine has now reclogged; I had about 5 days of good flow and now it is back to around 300ml/minute.
Oh, Ken, I am so sorry to hear that.

I'm sure you're feeling exactly as I felt after numerous drainings, disassemblies and reassemblies of my first GS/3, sometimes restoring good flow, only to have the cursed problem return after a few days. Now you can understand why, after weeks of futile repair attempts and many hours of wasted time, I insisted on a replacement machine. My worry was that the dealer would "repair" the problem, but it would come back a few days after the machine returned. I foresaw hundreds of dollars in back-and-forth shipping charges and days/weeks without a machine. Your experience has justified that fear.
To be fair, I didn't know about the swarf problem back then. If I had, and had I realized how relatively easy disassembling the group is (compared to a lot of other stuff I had done in the course of attempting repair), I probably would have gone down the same road you did. And I probably would have ended up asking for a replacement anyway. I'm going to go out on a limb here, but I think cleaning or even enlarging the gicleur will only relieve the symptoms temporarily, and will not cure the problem.
I believe that nothing is going to solve this problem short of removing the boiler and cleaning out all the swarf (if that's even possible) or replacing the boiler. I also think it would be prudent to replace TL30, for reasons explained below.
I think swarf is sitting on the bottom of the boiler and/or is adhering to the sides, and periodically some of it gets carried up into the group head by the water flow. Once there, it inevitably finds its way to the gicleur, where it adheres to the stainless area around the ruby insert. When you pull a shot, particles of swarf get swept against the gicleur, where they partially block the flow. My sense is that pieces may not be getting sucked all the way into the hole, but are either loosely adhering to the stainless material around the ruby or are partially lodged in the hole, with a portion of a piece in the hole and a portion remaining outside. I believe this because the simple act of draining my brew boiler would sometimes restore the flow rate. In this case, I think the draining water pulled swarf away from or out of the hole and back into the group head, and maybe even back into the boiler. I don't think any of this dislodged swarf made it out of the OPV, however. At least, I never saw any. It's conceivable that smaller swarf actually gets stuck deeper inside the gicleur, but I think if that was happening it's less likely that draining the boiler would have pulled it out. But it's a possibility.
I think some pieces of swarf are large enough that even a .8mm gicleur will be vulnerable to clogging. I think so because I found larger pieces of swarf inside the dispersion block screw. Besides, if there are small pieces of swarf in the boiler, could there be really tiny pieces that can get through the dispersion screen and into your cup?
My sense is that the first order of business is to make sure there's no loose material left in the boiler. Obviously, taking out the brew boiler would be a major operation (I think if I did that I'd take out the pump and motor, too, and permanently relocate them outside the machine.) Once out, I'm not sure what would be required to ensure that not a speck of swarf remains in the boiler. The holes leading into the boiler are quite small, so it would be tough to get a brush in there, and tougher to inspect the interior (which may be why the swarf is in there in the first place.) I think a fiber-optic scope might be required (don't laugh -- an HB member who visited me is a doctor and is planning on using one to check for scaling in the steam boiler!)
Given the uncertainly of the effort, I would say the better course of action is to replace the brew boiler with one that LM has thoroughly inspected for swarf. It seems only reasonable to replace TL30 at the same time, mainly to replace the gicleur in case there are tiny bits of swarf inside. It's possible swarf could be inside the copper tubes, too, so as long as the brew boiler has to be replaced, why not replace TL30 at the same time?
My guess is that this would fix the problem. That said, my natural paranoia has conceived of one further failure mode: swarf from the boiler may have gotten out through the inlets to the check valves and could foul them. When removing the brew boiler, I think it would be wise to clean as many of the check valves in the path as possible, and flush out all the copper tubes.
Now, it makes sense to me that this repair is so involved that it warrants replacement of the machine by the dealer/LM (perhaps with a machine that has been thoroughly bench tested for several weeks.) They can then repair your machine as suggested above, test it for several weeks, and sell it as refurbished. That said, you may prefer to keep the repaired machine (or repair it yourself) to avoid the possibility that the replacement machine has a swarf problem, too.
But I'm going to take the position that cleaning or replacement of the brew boiler is mandatory.