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Cimbali Junior D1 (vibe pump) plumbing question - Page 2

Postby darilon on Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:17 pm

Jimdk wrote:It's not that I don't know how to hook up the Jr. to my main water supply. It would just be waaaay easier for me if I could draw water from a tank. And my apartment isn't exactly the kind of apartment with a "laundry room" :P

Nobody knows if this is possible in any way?


Ok, so read the second part of my suggestion - use a portable dishwasher sink adapter to connect to the sink. These typically have quick releases so you aren't always connected, but do get mains pressure when you are connected. I almost chose this method until I realized I had a spare cold water tap in my laundry room (which is half office/espresso space already).
darilon
 
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Postby civ on Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:24 pm

Hello again Jimdk:

I knew I had the scan somewhere ... =-)

Jimdk wrote:It's not that I don't know how to hook up the Jr. ...
... be waaaay easier for me if I could draw water from a tank.
Nobody knows if this is possible in any way?

Mind you, this is from a guy who wants to make a Cimbali Junior Max go doserless, so it won't be me who will tell you that what you want to do is impossible, but allow me attempt a crude explanation as to why it is not so easy/feasible or even practical.

Below I've posted an exploded diagramme of the part of the Cimbali Junior model D/1 that is of our interest. I scanned it from a manual and added some coloured indicators to simplify my explanation.

Image

You can see three circles: one red, one green and two blue.

The red one marks the D/1's water inlet, where you plumb in the unit.
This inlet needs a certain amount of water pressure as per the manual's indications, it has to have enough pressure so as to overcome the pressure inside the boiler when the D/1 is temperature stable and ready to pull shots. Otherwise, the boiler will not fill and the Lucifer valve will click/clack all day.

The green one marks a brass OVP (exactly like the one that's under the group) working as a retention/three way valve.

The blue ones mark a pair of solenoid inlet valves, one (a Lucifer type valve) lets water into the boiler and the other (a plain washing machine inlet valve) lets water into the doser.

Assuming it starts off cold, when a (stock) plumbed in D/1 with the proper amount of mains pressure is turned on, the autofill circuit in the black box under the tray senses the actual boiler and doser levels.

If the sensors are not grounded (ie: boiler and doser below set level), the autofill circuit opens up both solenoid valves and fills the boiler and the doser till the water levels reach the point where the sensors ground, closing the valves.

If you follow the water, so to speak, you'll immediately notice that even though you may manage to modify the autofill/doser circuit in such a way so as to be able to pump water from a tank, you'll still need to have proper mains water pressure to fill the boiler at least 'once' (and I really don't see you filling it manually) and then keep it filled when the water level drops.

And that's about it.
Of course, I welcome any corrections to my commentary.

Cheers,

CIV
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Postby darilon on Thu Sep 30, 2010 9:48 pm

Junior's input pressure is 1.5-6.0 bar. 1.5 bar shouldn't be too hard to get to from a pump.
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Postby wacchimacchiato on Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:40 pm

Not sure if this thread has any life left in it but I shall add my solution anyhow!!

I have my D1 hooked up to the already mentioned Flojet pump which I managed to find for a good price on the bay (a couple of years ago now) and run it off a water bottle. This arrangement works well although sometimes it needs a gentle nudge to refill boiler once up to pressure after steaming (lots of steaming) and this is achieved by opening the water tap for a wee purge.

Another advantage to the flojet setup is of course that you can take junior on holiday with you (most easily by car of course, don't forget to strap her in though!!) and to parties/ charitable functions etc!!
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