Hi,

I've had a Bezzera BZ07 for a couple years now. And while my espresso is probably better than average, I wouldn't say it is at all good, given what I believe is considered to be a decent machine.

Occasionally the espresso will be all that it should be. But usually, I've found that my espresso is consistently off. Typically bitter (ashy). It's been bitter and sour, and for that I've bled my hx less and it has improved. But I was recently at someone's house with a double boiler unit, and they have a completely hands off approach to espresso (they don't adjust the grind for the given bean, they don't adjust the temperature even though they can, etc.) and every shot we pulled from that machine was markedly better than what I've done with all the micro adjusting of my Vario, weighing with my gram scale, changing up my tamp pressure.

And I'm just wondering if there is some more major adjustment I need to be making (other than sell the thing!), that I'm not aware of.

Note:
Have 3 kids and so am a bit time starved
Un-tech savvy: The idea of taking apart my machine and putting it together...is not appealing.

OK, I'll stop here. I'm writing because I don't know if there is something inherent about an HX machine or the Bezzera in particular that I should know and don't.

Thx,

ag

Sounds like you have covered some of the basics. How about the temperature of the machine ?? Do you have the ability to check the temp ?? If your temp is off, changing doses or time wont help you. That seems to be the unknown.

We need to know your OPV setting too.
I have a BZ10 and mine was factory set to 12 bar (too much for most purposes)
Alberto

When exactly did you buy your BZ07 and where did you buy it from?

What if I asked you to measure the resistance of the group heating element(s) assembly? Do you feel comfortable in doing that (or have a close friend who would be) ?

Have you ever removed and cleaned the shower screen?

Thanks for all these replies. Some responses:

Purchase date and dealer
I purchased the Bz07 from 1st line in October 2011. It actually came with a problem out of the package--some release valve in the steamer stuck so the thing won't actually get boiling in the morning until I manually open and close the steamer. I contacted them and they said they'd help me fix it here (vs. shipping it back to them). And either out of laziness, or more not wanting to deal with taking the thing apart, I've just dealt with it by opening the valve these last couple of years...

measure the resistance of the group heating element(s) assembly
I don't have a clue how I would do this (or what this means exactly!), but am willing to try to improve things before I give up on it!

Shower screen
Yes, have removed and cleaned.

We need to know your OPV setting too.
How would I go about doing this? Is this read from the gauge, or do I need a measuring tool of some sort?

Machine Temp
I would assume measuring water flowing out of group head would not be accurate. Do I need some special tool to do this?

Thanks again!

Really surprised to read of the problem at the steamer.
I think you should fix it and your dealer should/could have done more to help you
for what concerning pressures, what are readings of your gauges in terms of boiler pressure and brewing pressure? Do you have dual gauge in BZ07 or the boiler gauge only?
If you had dual gauge, you could also try to check OPV setting using blind filter.
Alberto

I have the same machine and can offer a couple of suggestions as I am going through a similar issue now approx. 4.5 years after purchase.

The grouphead heating elements are controlled by a snap thermostsat - this little device is there to help regulate what temperature the grouphead stays at. the original thermostat fitted has a shutoff point of 95C. This is too high for me in summer in Australia causing the water to actually increase in temp once it enters the group and consequently burns the coffee for me. I have changed this to a 90c thermostat and it works better. This item is not expensive but it pays to be able to measure the water temp and/or group temp to identify if indeed this is the issue. These little thermostats are not that accurate and can vary the group temperature up to 10 degrees in my experience. My theory is that you can always warm up the group easier than you can cool it down if your boiler pressure is correct and water temp coming out around the 92c mark.


The boiler pressure is an easier one to identify via the "Gauge" and relates to the temp of the water you brew with.
Try flushing the group head when the pressure is at its max on the gauge (I assume 1.3bar).Keep flushing until it reaches below 1bar( boiler will now kick in) then quickly load your portafilter and brew at this pressure. This is probably the "coolest" shot you can pull without loading cold water into your reservoir and topping up the boiler with it. This will negate the group head temp issue, as the grouphead will now be roughly the same temp as the water you have flushed through it.

Can you advise how long it is taking for you to brew a coffee i.e. 10sec/20sec etc.


Risso