mteahan wrote:The Marzocco manual says you have to run the group after a 30 minute rest to bring it back up to temperature. Saturated groups rely upon circulating water and thermal conductivity of the group material to move heat from one place to another, like from where the temperature is measured to where it is dispensed.

Stainless steel is awful for transferring heat energy, which is why the older non welded Marzoccos were more stable than the new ones.

HX machines tend to rise in temp from non use as the thermosyphon doesn't stall. It is all about balancing temperature profile capabilities of HX designs to match usage. Home use of commercial machines requires an accommodation outside the expected duty cycle of the machine.

So I actually have an inferior machine since my grouphead is welded!! What you say makes sense. I am modifying a blind disk to simulate a shot. That way, I can run two shots with the blind disk and then run my shot. In your experience, does a properly setup PID make the Linea noticeably more temp stable? I'm torn about adding that (and possible the Piero mod as well) to improve shot to shot consistency.

I think PID's are sometimes over used. They are designed to maintain temperature under static, predictable heat dissipation environments are to adjust the recovery algorithm after an unexpected temperature change. Not always the perfect solution. Twin boil machines, though, are about the only place where they can make sense.

Not inferior just different.

mitch236 wrote: I'm torn about adding that (and possible the Piero mod as well) to improve shot to shot consistency.

If you're using a Mazzer Mini, you'll get better results by upgrading your grinder before doing major surgery on the LM.

AndyS wrote:If you're using a Mazzer Mini, you'll get better results by upgrading your grinder before doing major surgery on the LM.

Well, I certainly don't want to spend $3400 for a Robur!!! I can't imagine it would improve my shot consistency enough since I only make one drink a day during the week. All I want to do is improve my single shot consistency. When the machine is in full brew mode, the shots are good. What I have started doing which helps is to run the brew until the boiler light comes on, then I wait for it to go off then I rinse the group for about 10 seconds and go for it. I have been trying to fabricate a "fake" puck that I can just drop into the basket and brew two or three shots and then go but haven't been able to come up with a good solution. I guess I could just brew one throw away shot and then re-brew the same puck again then go. That might work!

Anyway, I appreciate all the input!

Conicals rock.

I have a small, conical gear reduction drive on demand grinder I got from Spain that makes better espresso than anything else we have in the shop. Funny thing is that our suppliers thought a cheap little thing and can't comprehend why it's still running. Can't get them anymore, but it just plain rocks.

I feel so out of it, everyone has much cooler gear than I do. I am going to have to finish that GS1 just to save face!

mitch236 wrote:Well, I certainly don't want to spend $3400 for a Robur!!!

Well, a Robur is certainly not out of the question for someone who owns a one group Linea. But there are far less expensive approaches. For example: find a used commercial grinder like a Mazzer Major or Super Jolly, pop in a new set of burrs, and enjoy the results.

I won't belabor the point any more, except to say that a Mini mated to a Linea is not a felicitous combination.

I think anybody with a good grinder is happy with the machine and feels no urge to upgrade.

I wonder how many people are happy because they upgraded their grinder at the same time they upgraded the machine, attributing the improvement to the machine, good looks, and thickness of the stainless wall enclosure? Do more expensive machines taste better because they are mated to more expensive grinders? Looks like the most limiting factor is the "ugly" grinder parked in the corner.

mitch236 wrote:Well, I certainly don't want to spend $3400 for a Robur!!!

Compak K10 is less than half that much, it has almost identical burrs and takes well to singledose grinding.

and here I thought I was doing well with my Mini!! Now I'm hunting for a new grinder?

This forum is a dangerous place indeed!!!!!

Get a KyM Mokka and be happy! You'll make the warming flushes while manually grinding the beans!