I'm the type that is a pitbull on repairs, and I'm not at all liking
defeat at all. Also, want to make sure the latest findings are on
record for when I talk to Richard Monday.

I pulled the flowmeter out, it wasn't actually creating an obstruction
with how this particular design was set up, and still, got no
different in the responses.

What's happening, I get no green/red lights, which tells me the
heating element is not powering up. Pressurestat appears to be brand
new, this is making me think we have to move a connection away from
the stock set up you guys sent me. The pump tries to run, it just
barely moves slightly and stops, the power going into it gives out a
humming sound, typical of an electric motor that is obstructed. The
autofill seems to be engaging, and the boiler is taking on water just
fine through the inline plumbing system even when the machine is
turned off. I am able to move the motor, via. through the vent, but
using the top slot access spot, it's really tight, feels like it's
pushing against a rubber gasket, but it does move if I use a screw
driver to make it move, resistance being there could prevent the pump
from moving I'm thinking, but you guys tell me here.

I want to know if it's supposed to move freely using that top section,
and if so, then it's an easy fix, a matter of lubricating it up, to at
least get the motor moving, that, or polarity is crossed, via. how the
new computer is set up on the old machine, of which I'm not going to
experiment upon unless I get the go ahead from you guys to do so. I'm
only saying this because I've already been told to switch from the
stock set up via. the diagrams, on two power leads to a different
configuration all together, so I suspect there is more switching
around that needs to be done to get this back on line, and I'm not
going to want to risk burning the system out experimenting with it.

I'm going to run power directly to the pump tomorrow, just to test it
on it's own without being connected to the machine before I do
anything else. Unless it's some crazy amperage you guys have done
with the pump specs, unique to your lines, it's going to tell me if
it's working or not, and I can check the stator and windings to make
sure they are ok as well, hoping I don't have to rewind it, but it's
not outside of my abilities here.

The only wildcard I'm dealing with is the new computer, so far all of
the leads and connections are testing positive throughput, so cannot
put into account, bad, or broken wiring on it. The new computer I
still get no led read out on it, when I unplugged the pump power lead,
and let it sit for a minute or two, it starts to blink, off and on,
which I'm sure, is an error reading/indicator.