I waited a while to post since I wanted some content to add, but I see a few others are embarking on similar project and wanted to give them a sort of how-to...


This is the image the seller sent me of the machine:




Here is what UPS did to it...




The seller said it was in perfect working condition....

So I started taking it apart...















Note: The pics posted are selected from the many I took, to see them all: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v257/...e/astoria/

After a complete tear down:















And of course.. citric acid bath + polished the pieces:

Before...



After:

And then paint (used high temp enamel spray paint meant for engines)!



Putting it together:













All the water pipes are now hooked up, just electrical left for tomorrow.

And then of course to tighten all of the leaky spots and insulate the boiler

Are you going to stick with the rainbow speckle on black exterior?

I had the rainbow splatter on black exterior and opted to change that color scheme . . .



I took all the panel pieces to the powder coater and got them blasted and coated, but I haven't gone through the steps on the frame yet. I was lucky enough to get a second machine for parts when I bought the Rancilio Z11 that is going into my cafe. When I get bored, I will likely clean every thing on Astoria #2 and transfer parts back and forth for a more complete restoration.

Did you get that Z11L 2 group that was up a couple of weeks ago? Or is is just a Z11 Auto?

Edit: I am not sure if I am sad to see the splatter 80's finish go or not.

CRCasey wrote:Are you going to stick with the rainbow speckle on black exterior?

I don't really like it... and I've considered keeping it as just the frame... but probably going to put them on...

I would hate to spray paint the panels.. they'd come out like crap... sand blasting and powdercoating is an option, but would probably be fairly expensive.. maybe for a future project


Ok so now some problems...

1. Hooked up electricity and found a burnt fuse.. why does this thing even have a fuse? it's only for the motor and is 8A... probably to prevent overheating or something?

So Jumped it temporarily... Any thoughts on using an automotive fuse in the future?

2. After jumping fuse, motor runs, pump turns but boiler wasnt filling up [dont worry heating element disconnected]

Disconnected water pipe from flowmeter and it was only flowing w. line pressure... looks like pump was no good.

Put a spare pump I had on and now we have pressure.. but no boiler filling...

I kept taking things apart up the water path until I came to the solenoid for auto-fill. Seems there was blockage so bad I had to nearly hammer in a needle to break up the debris...

So it probably works now... but didnt have time to test it.

Now it's sitting in my room waiting until the next time I'm home from med school

And the worst problem was a voltage leak somewhere.
Between the chassis and the kitchen sink....
Tested it and it looks like 50V... NOT GOOD

A fuse that size in the motor circuit is only if the pump runs dry and overloads the motor. The vanes in a rotary pump will melt into the body if dry and can burn out the motor if it keeps being driven.

-Cecil

Still, don't put any automotive fuses in there, they usually don't insulate well enough for 115-230VAC. Only replace fuses with the same type as the one in there, especially if you have to ask if it's possible to use anything else, same goes with all other parts that are designed to keep you and the parts in the machine safe. The espresso side of the machine, that you are allowed to mess with as much as you want.

To expand on what was said above. Fuses are designed to protect against excessive power.

A 12V fuse at 1 Amp is designed to protect a 12 watt load.

A 120V fuse at .1 Amp would protect the same load.

Take care please. No fires.

-Cecil