Well I tested the group head selenoid and that was not the problem. So I then tested the flowmeter by turning the power off and the water pressure off, opening it up removing the vane, and then turning the water pressure slowly on. The plus side of the flowmeter should jet out water. It did and it gets water everywhere! If it doesn't you need to stick a paper clip in the hole on the plus side to free up the clog. I did that anyway just in case. Next up is the CTS injector fitting. GEC told me that this part also gets clogged easily. Its AS237 from
http://www.espressoparts.com/DivinaBoilerGasComponents It was so bad that I couldn't see any light through it. And I had just descaled this part too. The hole is so little that a paper clip is too wide. You need a very thin needle and only the tip will make it through. Poke around and in and out to clear the debris. I put it all back together and fired up the brew and it worked great....so great that I finally had my first shot of espresso. My own roast of a Colombian SO from Narino. YUMMMY!!!!! I had the same coffee out of my Silvia 30mins prior and the difference in taste is incredible. So much more creamy and sweet.


Now that we've got a working machine I need a place for it in my house. So back to my question from a few posts up...Can I split the heating element's coils and power each coil from a different outlet?

Each coil is 16 ohms. I was going to hook up an AC SSR to power the second coil. I posted the exact idea a few posts back.

I already tried running off one coil and it takes a big hit when I steam milk. It falls below 1 bar in about 20 secs and forget about brewing and steaming simultaneously. You think an SSR or contactor would work better?

good and funny point Eric. But running a new 20 amp wire to the espresso location is a lot of work too. I would have to open a bunch of drywall and patch it again. Paint as well. Whereas running the SSR idea requires only a little ingenuity. The wiring from the 2nd circuit is very near and will require only minor drilling and a 6' run of 12 or 14 gauge cable. As for the jury-rigging it shouldn't be bad. Probably easier than installing a PID and I'll do it just as clean. Good terminals, heat tolerant 12 gauge wire, add a fuse for extra safety, add a heatsink and plastic cover to the SSR , and zip ties for clean runs inside the machine.

Now the interesting thing is that I just tried connecting the machine to a 15 amp circuit that I have nearby and it didn't throw the breaker. I ran the pump and all. I don't get it. I'm going to try and connect it to the final location soon and see if it throws that circuit breaker.

Happy Thanksgiving Home Barista!!!!!!!!!!!

Well oddly enough it works on the 15 amp circuit without tripping the breaker. I couldn't be happier!!!! As soon as I put the panels back on and move the Super Jolly next to it I'll take a final project completion picture.

Let me tell you guys that it's a bitch to steam milk. It heats up so fast I have no time to texture and stretch.

Hope you all eat tons of turkey and drink a lot of coffee to offset the Tryptophan.

Well the long journey has come to an end. It was a great learning experience. Thank you all for your help and advice. I would like to give a very special thanks for Eric who is such a great member here at HB. Always helping everyone because of his love for this great beverage.



Only one last mishap occured when putting the panels back on. I tilted the machine on it's back in order to screw on the bottom panel. In doing so I think the red sight glass ball went into the boiler. I've tried tilting in every direction. It's not coming out. I just hope it doesn't clog anything one day.