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Another Linea A1 Story - Page 5

Postby PictureThyme on Tue Sep 28, 2010 3:12 pm

I think the engine turning, or guilloché, is quite beautiful and Paul's machines look great finished that way. This is one of Paul's images (borrowed without specific permission) for illustrative purposes.
Image

I searched for companies that polish stainless steel in Salt Lake and I don't know if I used the wrong terminology or perhaps there just aren't many places here that do this work but came up with very little. Finally after checking with some friends I was sent to Quality Plating. Their specialty is plating, of course, but they have a guy polishing as well. They can only do simple polishing and the parts I had done came out very nice. It was not cheap. I could replace a boiler for the money it will cost to have the whole machine polished. I think I'm going to go to Home Depot and try the sandpaper method Greg outlined. I could then at least finish the top covers with the same look.

The money is going to go to some home renovation work so when this Linea is finally complete it will have a proper home.
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Postby PictureThyme on Tue Sep 28, 2010 3:19 pm

erics wrote:Certainly there is probably some posts here on HB as regards metal finishing - not my most skilled endeavor. However, one thought would be to grab a junk piece of SS to see if any methods you want to try are reasonable. I realize(?) you already sent it out for rework that was returned not to your satisfaction.


Agreed. Polishing the brass and copper lines was enough fun. I would rather spend my valuable free time on the electronics. The shop said if I didn't like the finish I could take that panel back in and have it polished smooth. It's still sitting at home waiting for a final decision. I may try Greg's idea and then if that doesn't look good, get it polished.
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Postby PictureThyme on Tue Sep 28, 2010 3:31 pm

mitch236 wrote:Really? I've been doing some mods to my Linea and I've used teflon tape on all the fittings. Should I go back and remove the tape? I've owned my machine since new but used to have it serviced so some of the fittings may have been tampered with but I thought I was supposed to use tape. The machine has been working fine with no leaks but I don't mind re-doing the fittings I used tape on.

Thanks!


I did a search on HB for "teflon tape" when I was trying to decide which way to go--tape or not. Everybody has an opinion and learning what works is part of the fun--the real intention of this project. Luckily for me I've yet to step into the "water quality" mine field. The opinions about engine turning and teflon are much less caustic.

But speaking of water, my purchase came with a complete Everpure system for which I need to buy replacement filters. I have three filter connections leading to the pump. SLC has 13 grain hardness water, though I have not tested the water at my faucet. Any thoughts as to which filters I should buy?
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Postby mitch236 on Tue Sep 28, 2010 8:24 pm

I was very careful about taping and don't have any leaks so maybe I'll just leave it alone until (unless) something fails. After all, I'm sure it's not good to keep retightening fittings.

I love the look of the machined front panel! I've been wondering how to refinish mine. It is stained from leaving water on it daily when I was in my "I don't care about cleanliness phase".

It's fun to watch your project since I know from my repairs/mods what parts you are playing with. The Linea is artful simplicity!
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Postby erics on Tue Sep 28, 2010 8:29 pm

As regards using teflon tape on threaded connections, one really needs to look at "what are the sealing surfaces" and what is the potential leak path should that first barrier fail. Most definitely, teflon tape has its place as a thread sealing medium on both tapered and straight thread fittings where, in fact, the threads themselves are the primary sealing surfaces. As an aside, here is a well written paper on threads and their sealing mechanisms, somewhat applicable: http://www.colder.com/Portals/0/Library/Resources/Literature/WhitePapers/Documents/NPT_whitepaper.pdf . The use of teflon tape where it is not originally intended to be employed will reduce the design clearances between the male and female threads such that correct tightening of the components MAY NOT take place.
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Postby PictureThyme on Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:06 pm

Eric,
What you are saying is completely logical. The teflon is used on the threads to connect two fittings where the threads are designed to be the sealing mechanism. In the case of the fittings on these machines, the connectors and threads are designed to compress the flare end of the pipe to the boiler fitting.

Thanks for the clarification.

Just checked out your link and files. The wiring schematics you have are nice. Where's the wiring diagram for the LMs?
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Postby Paul_Pratt on Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:00 pm

Hi all,

Yes dump the teflon tape, it will probably hinder a seal rather than improve it as it is a compression/flared fitting.

The engine turing isn't that hard to replicate if you can find the right abrasive bobs to do it with. Mine is a bit dodgy above as I did it freehand, but I think the hardest part is to get the spacing of the individual circles consistent.

By far the easist way to make that panel look great for hardly any pennies is to brush it. You do exactly as it says on the tin and go up and down using sandpaper. I'd start off around 80 then 220 then finish with 400.

Paul
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Postby erics on Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:15 pm

Where's the wiring diagram for the LMs?

Well, I'm probably repeating something you already know but I would think think that a friendly email to LM-USA with exact model and serial number would provide you with a wiring diagram for your particular model.
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Postby PictureThyme on Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:27 am

Email LM? That would be the quick answer, but not as colorful.

I've done most of my replacement parts orders through the guys at LM. They have current stock items readily available. And they are great to work with.
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Postby mitch236 on Wed Sep 29, 2010 9:01 am

Paul_Pratt wrote:Hi all,

Yes dump the teflon tape, it will probably hinder a seal rather than improve it as it is a compression/flared fitting.

Paul


Yes, what you say makes sense to me. Since I already finished my project and nothing seems to be leaking, should I go back and remove it now or leave it alone?
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