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Anita throwing GFI after descale - Page 5

Postby allon on Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:52 am

northeaster wrote: the Anita circuit design is robust enough to survive reversed voltages without major damage


<pedant>
Fwiw, neutral and ground are the same voltage potential; they're typically connected to each other in the breaker panel. Neutral is there to carry current, ground is only for safety in case the device plugged in is defective and the case becomes energized.

Also, the voltage between hit and neutral reverses 60 times each second (in the US) so the machine deals with reversed voltage constantly.

</pedant>
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Postby northeaster on Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:32 am

allon, your point is very well taken.

What I was thinking about, perhaps in a fuzzy way, was the solid state relay. I am certainly not knowledgable enough to be certain as to whether there is directionality to solid state devices such as this (with load and control sides specified in Eric's schematic).

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Postby allon on Mon Oct 24, 2011 10:17 am

Oh, rereading I can see I misunderstood;
Yes, solid state relays can be sensitive to load vs line orientation.
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Postby duke-one on Mon Oct 24, 2011 5:34 pm

An A/C device, on the load switching side, is not polarized. The control side if D/C is.
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Postby erics on Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:39 pm

You're right KDM but fortunately the control side of the SSR's used in this line of machines are all 110-120 VAC on the control side. HOWEVER, the control leads must be connected to the control side and the load leads connected to the load side as shown on my referenced schematic (kinda obvious, I know).

Marty - what exactly have you determined to be the cause of "no heat"? or did I miss something?
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Postby northeaster on Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:22 pm

Eric-

I'm pretty sure the water level sensor switch is gone, too.

1) With proper polarity at the terminal strip, there is no heat with the sensor switch in the circuit and heat with it jumpered out of the circuit.

2) The float rises properly with the water level in the tank, so it's not that problem. Nor can I get the heating element on by unscrewing the sensor switch, then slowly moving the sensor switch up or down on the surface of the cover to which it's normally mounted (I gather that early versions of the Anita sometimes had issues with the magnet inside the float dropping to the bottom of the float itself, out of the range of the sensor).

I'll know for sure tomorrow; it's a happy artifact of living in Boston that free UPS ground arrives from Albany the day following an early morning order.

Thanks again
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Postby ddn on Tue Oct 25, 2011 12:23 am

In what probably isn't a surprise to anyone - a new heating element resolved all the problems. After 5-6 years it was likely just time.
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