The wiring at the pump can be either way - it is not polarity sensitive. The small brown wires originate from a temperature sensing diode that will shut off the pump as a function of coil temperature. HOWEVER, check the wiring connections where the incoming power cord enters the machine. They MUST BE as shown below:



I am groping for a solution here but I assure you that I have personally seen some errors in machine assembly which you would not have thought reasonably possible.

Thanks again Eric and Ken--

The good news is the machine seems to be working normally at this point since I disconnected the brew switch and reconnected it. I just pulled a pretty good double shot--thank goodness because the neighbor's new puppy seems to think no one needs to sleep at night.

But i do what to get to the bottom of why the pump WAS running with the machine off.

And here's partially why along with the obvious reasons. About 8 months ago I woke up in the a.m. and the machine-which was off-- smelled like burning rubber and there was about 2 cups of water on the counter around the machine --some water was pooled in the bottom of the machine.

I unplugged it and cleaned up. The smell seemed to be coming from the area of the pump. But it worked fine after it dried.

When I replaced the pump yesterday the rubber "bracket" that holds the pump toward the front of the machine was decomposing in one part as if it had be compromised by heat or a chemical. I'm assuming heat. This could be normal wear on the rubber as it gets hot in the machine and it's about 3 years old.

I don't know if the pump started in the middle of the night that night 8 months ago or what happened. But I decided to unplug the machine when it's not in use since then. Actually it's plugged into a power strip and I switch the power off.

I'm sharing this because it all may be related and I don't want to leave pieces out of the puzzle.

As for the power input, Eric, thanks for the schematic. Here's what I've got and I would say it's different than the schematic.

Jeff,

Whatever you do, remember that electricity and water are an especially dangerous combination.

If you continue to work on your machine, not really being 100% sure of what you are doing, you need to exercise extreme caution.

By this I mean that you need to be sure that the machine will only be plugged into a socket with a functioning GFCI in it, with a functioning circuit breaker in the circuit breaker box. Try to be a bit away from the machine when you plug it in if you have done anything to it.

If you think you are getting in over your head, then have a competent tech work on it. You might spend a couple hundred dollars doing so, but it would be a lot safer.

ken

Ken--

Word. Thanks. And agreed.

Truth is I'm not getting in over my head ....so far. The water hazard the pic may have brought up in your mind may be the result of the poor photoshopping I did. There was a flash reflection in the stainless steel bottom so I photoshopped it out with a quick and poor use of the clone tool in Photoshop--kind of looks like water.

Never the less, your advice is sound and i appreciate it. At a minimum I'm working in dry conditions and if I can't get the machine working properly I don't have much to live for anyway. Wait...what?

From your pic, it certainly APPEARS as though the hot (black) and the neutral (white) originating from the power cord have been switched, i.e., the black is connected where the white should be and the white where the black should be. European wiring standards are such that typically blue represents neutral and brown is hot. But as Ken has previously said . . .

I will be more than happy to send you the jpg of the electrical diagram or you can download it from my crude FTP site below my sig. The Andreja should have a serial number and a manufacturing date on a sticker below the cup warming area. Please post same and, hopefully, someone with a chronologically close Andreja can chime in. My wiring diagram reflects my Anita, serial number 01-27-06 - 04614.

I recommend you replace the brew switch and trace out the rest of the wiring (compared to my drawing) with the likely outcome of switching the wires. I don't know how far you are from Solvang, CA but Great Infusions should have some Andrejas in stock or maybe in their shop - http://www.greatinfusions.com/index.html

Some espresso machines have the pump connected directly to the mains and not through the power switch. It allows you to fill the boiler without engaging the heater which is good for the heating element when the boiler is empty. Not familiar with the Andreja Premium.

Ken Fox wrote:
Michael told me that sometimes the Italians will switch the neutral, instead of the hot, that they would often violate international norms when it comes to wiring and wire coloring.

ken

Unfortunately, yes this is quite common.

Paul

Eric-- Thanks for the lead to the schematic at your link.

I see it's for the Quick Mill Anita and not the Andreja Premium--unless I missed something.
I'm wondering how different the two machines are. On the face of it there are 9 connections (9 separate wire connections via a plug or lugs) into my
Gicar "computer" and the schematic for the Anita shows 7 connections to the Gicar.

On the face of it there is an additional white wire and black wire connected to the Gicar on my machine compaired to the number of wires in the schematic. Also another configuration into the Gicar on my machine amounts to very fine gauge wire that seems to link to the level sensors in the water reservoir. (I assume the low-water buzzer is incorporated in the Gicar on my machine.

There seems no indication on the Gicar on my machine as to which terminal is which as far as numbering 1-10 as it's shown in the schematic. I have seen hookups in automotive setting where there are clear numeric markings on terminals, and this is not that type of set up. I'm not sure there would be a numbering of terminals on any Gicar but there is no intuitive way to match up a "numbering" or order of the wires on my Gicar compared to the schematic.

At this point I'm just examining the hookups. I'm not rewiring anything because I just don't have that kind of comfort with my knowledge of the machine's workings. But I do understand enough to see in the schematic the pump has constant power from the "neutral" and we're trying to figure how it gets power from the "line' to the pump to complete the circuit.

On my Gicar I have what amounts to 2 rows of staggered Male lug hookups but none are numbered and one is vacant. The wiring as far as coloring and number of wires connected are different than the schematic as well in that some wires on mine are piggy backed hookups connecting two wires to one terminal where the schematic shows only one wire connected on the Anita. In short, the hookups on my machine's Gicar are different. And I'm not sure which terminal serves what function in the computer board.

As far as the serial number that sticker on mine needs to go to a crime lab to be enhanced because the information is almost completely faded, unfortunately.

From what I can see it looks like the numbers are: 43 06 17009 or 43 05 17009.

I realize the staggering of the numbers does not seem right. The readability is very poor. And that's what it seems to be in the numbering.

Thanks for all your help on this so far.

You did not miss anything. Your extra terminals are likely for the buzzer which is simply an initial low water level warning.





If you keep your wiring as is at the power cord terminal block, you should see that your brew switch has live power (120 vac with respect to ground) with the machine's main power switch off. NOT CORRECT & NOT SAFE.

Tack sa mycket once again.

Close, but no Gicar?

Here's a picture of the hookups into my brains. I think my system is different then the one you pictured. It looks like your computer wiring is simpler(?) I have two separate computer boards inside the Gicar and .

And I hear what your saying about the power at the terminal block and agree if it not correct it is not safe.
I'll check the brew switch for POWER with the machine OFF.