Hello all:
I'm wondering about installing a drain valve in my boiler.
I have a Salvatore One Black, an HX machine.
I have no idea how to adequately flush the boiler periodically, as the hot water wand is attached to the boiler quite high. I currently tip the machine a little to get as much out the wand as possible, but the fitting is almost halfway up the boiler, so it's not very effective.

I know I could disassemble the machine and pull off one of the top fittings and siphon, but that's a hassle for monthly refreshing the boiler.

It seems to me that a brass valve installed on the lowest orifice would be great for the occasional drain and refilling, and also for the descaling process. I haven't seen a part like this for sale anywhere. Ideally, it would have an outlet that would accept a drain tube.

I wonder if anyone knows of such a part?

Perhaps even if someone has a machine that comes standard with one, I could order one from the manufacturer and install it on mine. I would love to see a picture of anyone's machine who has such a feature, standard or DIY.

Thanks if you can help, Dave

Any good plumbing supply shop should have the parts needed to set up a drain w/valve.

Alternative to drill holes in boiler and solder a fitting for attaching a cock valve or what ever
or an extra pump (even a vibe one will do) some silicone hoses
remove the safety valve or any easy access to top of boiler
and let the pump suck the water out

Here is the drain valve from my Astoria. The assembly in the picture screws into the fitting on the bottom of the boiler. Plastic tubing connects to one end so that when you crack the drain valve, water can be diverted to wherever you'd like.

davefitz wrote:Perhaps even if someone has a machine that comes standard with one, I could order one from the manufacturer and install it on mine. I would love to see a picture of anyone's machine who has such a feature, standard or DIY.

Ball valve with thread so you can attach a hose for draining.

stefano65 wrote:Alternative to drill holes in boiler and solder a fitting for attaching a cock valve or what ever
or an extra pump (even a vibe one will do) some silicone hoses
remove the safety valve or any easy access to top of boiler
and let the pump suck the water out

Hi Stefano,

What experience have you had with fittings soldered onto boilers? On the Elektra boiler I have, the seams and fittings were brazed with what looks like brass, bronze or copper rod. They don't seem to have used lead-free plumbers solder anywhere (the kind used to solder copper pipe fittings together).

The reason I ask is I have an Insinkerator Instant-Hot hot water heater under my sink, and the copper hot water tank on that is soldered together. After a few years, the stress of the thermal expansion seems to cause the soldered joints to start leaking (of course, after the warranty has expired ).

Have you seen any commercial espresso boilers with soldered fittings, and does the joint last?

I look forward to your feedback on this.

Philip

Fixitupper wrote:Here is the drain valve from my Astoria. The assembly in the picture screws into the fitting on the bottom of the boiler. Plastic tubing connects to one end so that when you crack the drain valve, water can be diverted to wherever you'd like.

It looks like there must be some other part of the fitting, screwed or welded to the boiler?

What does that look like? And how does it work? Do you just loosen that nut on the left of your picture?

Thanks, Dave

Can't you just save yourself a lot of hassle and use the hot water wand to cycle water through the boiler?

The hot water wand IS the hassle. The wand is so high on the boiler it just spurts steam, takes forever to get any water out.

If I'm careful, and catch the boiler before it's too hot, but hot enough to pressurize, I can draw water through the wand, but it takes awhile, and of course, when the pump activates, I'm just mixing in the new water with the old, not really replacing it.

It seems like it would be more efficient and effective to just open a valve, drain, close a valve, turn machine on. Especially if one wants to do this weekly.

stefano65 wrote:Alternative to drill holes in boiler and solder a fitting for attaching a cock valve or what ever
or an extra pump (even a vibe one will do) some silicone hoses
remove the safety valve or any easy access to top of boiler
and let the pump suck the water out

Actually, No drilling or soldering will be necessary. I have a nice threaded hole in the right place.

I want to refill my boiler with distilled water weekly or bi-weekly, to minimize scale. Dismantling the machine that often and removing boiler fittings sounds a little prohibitive.

A one-time installation of a valve, and the subsequent ease of use, appeals more to me, though it may not be as easy as I'd like.

As you can see in the photo, I don't have much room to work with. If you have any suggestions as to particular parts or methods that might work with my machine, I would be grateful.