For now I live in Italy and found what I think is a great price on a new machine but it will be 220 volt. My question is if anyone as gone through the trouble in getting a 220 volt outlet installed in there kitchen in the states?

mark

It's certainly doable. The issue is whether your kitchen is amenable to working within the walls to run new wires and where your breakers are located. Your 220V outlet will need larger gauge wire, a different outlet, and a 220v breaker.

Actually your 220 volt outlet may need smaller gauge wires, for the same size load, and likely based on the specifications of several 120 vs 220 prosumer machines Ive seen, it is at least the same size wire not larger as its lower current per leg.

If you are planning to run a 120V 20Amp circuit, then running a 220V circuit is only nominally more expensive, a single pole 20A breaker and a 2 pole 20A breaker are only about $5 difference in price. The socket maybe $10 more than a quality 20A socket, so in the grand scheme o things if you were planning to run a dedicated circuit anyway, then it shouldn't change much as far as increased expense goes.

Concerns that may crop up are does your future panel have room for another double breaker?
Does the machine support 60hz for its electronics? If it is PID equipped and or maybe has a shot timer will it be accurate at 60hz.

Given the choice though a 220 circuit completely trumps the 15A vs 20A challenge that presents itself to the typical US buying decision and I would always choose a 220V answer if the machines werent so much more $ here, and likely not even in stock so large lead times and parts availability and cost increases going forward really kill the idea in most circumstances.

In fact, you are right with "larger gauge", which means smaller diameter wire (AWG is the opposite way to measure the wire than surface area=mm2).
But I will leave this question since this is not the most important thing (and also larger wires are never a problem).

Your problem is to get the 230V outlet, but also the voltage. This can be done by transformer. Look for local specialized electro stores to find a 120->230V transformer for running 2kW machine (or more, depends on which type you want). In fact, it will not be so cheap, I think maybe 100 USD or more.

So then you should decide if you want to buy a separate transformer for it or buy a 120V machine instead. It is possible, but I recommend to go for 120V machine.

Also the question of line frequency is here, because in USA 60Hz will make the 50Hz pump run faster, which can overheat it or increase pressure. It should not be a problem for rest of the electronics like heating element or PID.

rammrod wrote:For now I live in Italy and found what I think is a great price on a new machine but it will be 220 volt. My question is if anyone as gone through the trouble in getting a 220 volt outlet installed in there kitchen in the states? mark

It would actually be a 240v outlet over here & they aren't all that rare in U.S. houses. Every electric stove requires a 240v outlet so there may already be an unused 240v outlet in the kitchen. I've added several 240v outlets in our 250 year old house. It helps to have an unfinished basement under the kitchen or coffeebar area.

Ideally you would have an electrician put in a dedicated 240V circuit with a GFCI breaker. The GFCI would probably not be required by code. (NEC 210.8 specifically requires GFCI for 125V kitchen counter top outlets, but seems to have a loophole for higher voltages.) An espresso machine really should be on a GFCI, and your electrician will know how to install one - they do it for 240V spa circuits where it is specifically required by code.

Note:
In Europe I think all your kitchen outlets are typically on RCD protected circuits, similar to what we call GFCI.

I recently rewired my kitchen with the plan to cover my possible future 220 volt machine needs...

I ran a multi-wire branch circuit with 12-3 cable off a 20 amp, 2-pole gfi breaker.

This gives me 2 * 20 amp 110 volt circuits at each box, with the option to have a 20 amp 220 volt connection if I wish.

If you use your stove connection be sure to change to an appropriate breaker rating to accommodate the receptacle you will require to fit your machine, likely 15 or 20 amp... I'd buy a receptacle in Europe and being it with you so you don't have to find one here.

Also re: frequency... I have spoke with ecm and rocket about their 220v machines and both said they were rated 50-60 hz...

Also I wonder about the comparative cost of switching out the 220V heating element for a 110V element and a 110V power cord? You might check with the manufacturer, but if the wiring is otherwise the same that could be a good alternative.

What is the wattage of your machine?

You may be able to run your machine off of one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Watt-Volta ... 0726695752

I did so with a 1000W La Pavoni Europiccola that I bought in Italy.

drgary wrote:Also I wonder about the comparative cost of switching out the 220V heating element for a 110V element and a 110V power cord? You might check with the manufacturer, but if the wiring is otherwise the same that could be a good alternative.

When I moved from the US to Israel, I had the option of replacing the machine or using a transformer for the GS3.

Instead, I worked with the great support team in LM USA and ordered a 220v motor, 2 heaing elements, and 3 solenoid coils to replace the 110v parts. Also had to rewire the Gicar voltage selection header.

All in all - ended up being a 700-800$ affair. Could have been substantially less had I purchased the components from a parts warehouse instead. But I didn't wanted it to become a protracted affair and it ended up being a 1-2 hour job to replace everything. (With lots of parts scattered on the floor : ).

BTW - did the same with The Versalab (replaced the DC power board), the PacoJet (power board and motor), Holtkotter lamps (dinner boards and lamps), and rewired the Brystons. JL Audio would not disclose their schematic (I suspect that they don't actually design or make any of their electronics!!!) and I ended up burning and having to redesign their crappy switching power supply.