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1994 Elektra Deliziosa flowmeter problem

Postby icj on Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:42 am

Hi all,

I am rebuilding a 1994 Elektra T1 and the dosing is not working and I am trying to work out if it is a flowmeter problem or just a connection problem (The control box seems to behave properly). The image below shows how the connectors were connected to the control box when I got the machine. There is a fourth tab just beyond the number 3 connector that was connected to nothing. I am just wanting to confirm that this is how it should be connected. (There had been a valve that had been connected up backwards so I don't trust everything on this machine and it wasn't running when I got the machine so I don't have anything to compare it to)

The lower picture shows how it is the older 5 button controller.

Image

Image

If you can confirm that this is how the connectors should be connected or are connected on your similar machine I would appreciate the help.

Ian
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Postby Paul_Pratt on Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:10 am

Hi Ian,

Looks like a standard Gicar controller. Will check tomorrow for the wiring as I have some in the office. I think that uses a jumper switch to program, you can see the keyhole at the bottom left.

When you say the dosing is not working, do the first 4 buttons work at all? How about the 5th button?

Lovely machine by the way.

Paul
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Postby Fullsack on Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:29 am

My 1993 is a twin to your 1994, but doesn't have the same wire color coding. Let me know what 1,2 & 3 connect to and I'll check it against mine.
Image
If you're more specific with what you mean by a dosing problem, it would help with a diagnosis. If the time of the shot pull is what you're speaking of, that is adjustable on a T1.
Doug Jamieson
http://www.fullsackjack.com/
LMWDP #017

Oh yeah, it's deliziosa!
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Postby Fullsack on Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:08 pm

Image
Doug Jamieson
http://www.fullsackjack.com/
LMWDP #017

Oh yeah, it's deliziosa!
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Postby stefano65 on Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:01 pm

match the
+ - 0 symbols from the gicar flowmeter
and the Prongs (sticker on the back casing of the dose pad shows them)
on the dose pad
Stefano Cremonesi
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repair & sales from Oregon.
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Postby icj on Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:23 am

Fullsack wrote:My 1993 is a twin to your 1994, but doesn't have the same wire color coding. Let me know what 1,2 & 3 connect to and I'll check it against mine.
<image>
If you're more specific with what you mean by a dosing problem, it would help with a diagnosis. If the time of the shot pull is what you're speaking of, that is adjustable on a T1.


The problem is that the first four buttons are not causing it to run at all. When I first turn the machine on the LED's all blink on. When I use the program key, pressing the fifth button turns on all the lights. I then press the first button and the water begins running with the LED on then the LED begins flashing. Pressing the button again turns off the flow of water. Taking the machine out of program mode and pressing the first key still then does nothing.

I had found reference on one post of the LED on the flow meter flashing as the water ran through it but my LED is not flashing at all. My assumption was that I would need to replace the Gicar flow meter, then I remembered that there were three wires with four connections on the back of the controller and that there might be a connection problem. Trying the cheap solutions first. :)
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Postby icj on Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:26 am

stefano65 wrote:match the
+ - 0 symbols from the gicar flowmeter
and the Prongs (sticker on the back casing of the dose pad shows them)
on the dose pad


Thanks Stefano

There wasn't a sticker on the back of the dose pad. I will have to pull it out again and take another look and on the circuit board as well.

Ian
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Postby icj on Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:27 am

Doug,

I see that your empty pin is different than on my machine which makes me all the more curious.

Thanks for your time in opening up your machine and taking a picture.

A very nice looking machine, by the way. I can only hope mine comes out looking as nice as yours.

Ian
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Postby icj on Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:52 am

Hi,

I noticed that on Doug's machine the wiring used the same colours with the Brown and Red wires and that they were connected offset from how my machine was. I tried moving my wires over one like on Doug's to see what would happen. The worst that I figured would be that I would toast the Gicar Flowmeter, but if it was already toast then no loss, but if it was all just a connection problem then I might have things working. :) but :( it didn't work. Everything worked as before, but now there was no light on the Gicar flowmeter.

I put things back and there seems to be no harm done, no worse no better.

I will see about pulling out the box and checking it for markings hopefully tomorrow, but school starts again and it is back to work...

Ian

On a side note, it is interesting how stuff that I used to drink that was passed off as coffee now taste terrible. When you start on this quest for better coffee your standards change and you can't go back... Now to remodel the kitchen to make a proper coffee bar... how many times have I read that in other postings... :lol:
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Postby Paul_Pratt on Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:46 am

Sorry I forgot to check the controllers in my office today. But based on your further descriptions it sounds like the field sensor on the flowmeter is dead - assuming the wiring to be ok of course. It seems not to be sensing any rotation of the flowmeter wheel, so each time you program it learns that no rotation of the wheel is correct.
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