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Better Extraction, Better Espresso
The basic shot making techniques get you decent espresso, but not
necessarily the best espresso. For that, you want to find which
combination of pressure, temperature, grind, and finishing color works
best with the blend. Also, things do go wrong—temperatures and
pressures can drift, burrs get dull, machines can build up coffee oils
faster than usual and require an unscheduled cleaning. Each of these
mars the taste and needs to be identified. A good barista can taste an
espresso and have a fairly good idea of what adjustments are required to
optimize the taste. By the second or third go round of tasting and
adjusting, the blend should be well dialed in. This takes experience,
but here are some tips to get you started.
The bulk of this section is dedicated to extraction options since
most baristas, whether pro or amateur, have little awareness of what is
available to them. In fact there isn't even an agreed upon vocabulary to
describe all the variations in extraction. However, before getting into
extraction options, let's cover a few tips on adjusting the pressure and
Adjusting Brew Pressure
Proper espresso extraction occurs at 8 to 10 bar of pressure. The
higher pressures in this range intensify the flavors.
On low end home machines the pressure cannot be set. For the type of
pump in this class of espresso machines, the brew pressure is inversely
proportional to the flow rate (i.e., faster flow means lower pressure,
slower flow means higher pressure). In order to stay within 8 to 10 bar,
you limit the extraction to a flow rate that produces 1.5 to 2 ounces in
20 to 25 seconds. On better vibration pump machines, you can set the
maximal pressure via an adjustable over pressure valve (OPV, also called
an expansion valve). Use a blind filter or pressure measuring
portafilter and set the pressure between 8.5 and 10.5 bar. The pressure
during the extraction will be roughly half a bar less for standard or
ristretto shots. Rotary pumps add a constant amount of pressure to that
of the mains. They are also controlled by an OPV at the pump head, and
in many cases, a constant pressure valve on the suction side. Use a
blind filter or pressure measuring portafilter to set the pressure
exactly at the desired shot pressure.
Adjusting Brew Temperature
Proper espresso extraction occurs at 90°C to 96°C (195°F
to 205°F). Lower temperatures accentuate acidic origin flavors,
while higher temperatures accentuate bitter roast flavors.
Single boiler home machines with non-adjustable mechanical
thermostats have their par temperature at the point the thermostat turns
off the heater. You can brew at a lower temperature by flushing a few
seconds of water after the heater turns off; and at a higher temperature
by forcing the heat back on by turning on the steam switch for a few
seconds (turn it off prior to brewing). This is somewhat hit or miss,
but can be improved by calibrating the flush and steam switch time with
a thermocouple thermometer.
Temperature measuring portafilter
Heat exchanger machines are set by adjusting the pressurestat, doing
a sequence of eight shots or so at your normal rhythm, and seeing where
the shot temperature settles. After that, you should also adjust the
flush to get an idling machine to that temperature. For one-off
experiments or single-shot home use, simply adjust the flush amount (see
How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs
for more details).
Machines with electronically controlled brew boilers can be set from
the front panel without fuss. Vapor bulb thermostats can be adjusted
inside the machine. Both types should be checked with a thermocouple
thermometer to confirm the actual brew temperatures.
Manipulating the Extraction Variables
You control the extraction by setting the grinder finer or coarser
and ending the shot at a certain flow color, shot volume, or elapsed
time. I recommend using flow color as the way of determining the end of
the shot, as discussed in the previous section. Each combination of grinder setting and ending color gives a unique
combination of shot time and shot volume (when using the same basket,
coffee amount, blend and machine). In fact, fixing any two of the
variables (grinder setting, shot color, time, and volume) fully
specifies the other two.
Next page: Diagnosis of extraction problems...