by PeterG on Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:09 pm
Hey Guys-
I've been meaning to weigh in for a while, but internet connectivity can be difficult in East Africa, where I am traveling at the moment. But I managed to grab some wireless here at the Nairobi airport.
Our goal with Toscano is to maintain a consistent flavor profile, inspired by a coffee I tasted in Siena one time. The basic goal is to focus on sweetness; flavors of caramel, butterscotch, milk chocolate, dark chocolate, and a hint of nut (I always say, sorta like a Snickers bar.)
To maintain such a flavor profile, we must constantly tinker with the blend. This is especially true since Toscano focuses on Sundried Natural coffees from Brazil and Indonesia, which can be even more variable than most. Over the years, I think we've been able to consistently nail it, while at the same time enjoying the natural ebb and flow of flavors that comes along with coffee seasonality.
Over the years, we've gotten invaluable help in perfecting and maintaining the flavor profile from geeks like Mike Walsh and Dan Kehn, and pros like murky coffee, 9th Street Espresso, and Pheasant Creek.
When we first committed to transparency in our espresso blends, we decided to label Toscano with "vintage years" every time we changed the formula. This was to try to communicate the reality of coffee blends as fungible and ever-changing, and practice our goal of "radical transparency". We always list the components of Toscano, as we do with all the blends we sell. No secrets here.
However, a little while ago, we decided to drop the "Vintage Year" thing, because it was causing confusion. People were calling in February 2006 saying: "we have a bag marked Toscano 2005 here. Was it roasted last year?". So we dropped the year, but will always continue our practice of naming the component coffees of the blend on the label.
The very first Toscano blend in 2003 contained a small percentage (10% or so) of a French-roasted Sumatra. In a subsequent year (I think 2004), we dropped that percentage after a series of taste experiments with murky; we felt that the sharpness of the bittersweet dark chocolate of the dark roast was inconsistent with the goal of the blend. (It was sweeter without it). Since then, the roast level has remained nearly the same (just as Tim mentioned).
"Smokiness" has never been an intentional flavor component of Toscano. It was kind of a mystery to me when Tacy mentioned it in his review, but hey; the vagaries of taste are inscrutable. We've always maintained the focus on simple sweetness in this coffee, and people seem to love it.
As a number here have mentioned, our roasting QC is very tight, and we analyze every single roast a number of times. And our roasting profile for this coffee has remained focused.
All this said, I think that Timo got a mistakenly filled or labeled bag. As much as it pains me to say it, in our rush to roast coffee and ship it the same day, we've made a few mistakes over the years. This is the simplest explanation for the roast level inconsistency Timo observed. Tim, please give us some feedback on the comped bag we're sending this week; I'd love to hear your wife's take on it.
I'll post more later about the blend transitions over the years, and how that all works, but I have to go catch a flight!
See you soon
Peter
counter culture coffee