by another_jim on Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:47 am
If you home roast, you owe yourself a taste of this coffee, maybe with a nice baked fruit pie.
Tom rates it at 90; and I think that's actually on the low side, to me it tastes like an auction winner, two to four points higher.
His description is accurate, although I also got some Bourbon smoke and almond. But the big news for me is combination of sweetness, cleanness and complexity. A DP Ethiopian can be complex and sweet, but usually not clean, a Kenya can be complex and clean, but usually not that sweet, and a Panama etc etc. This layering of florals, sweet citrus, syrupy brown sugars, nuts and slightly smoky tannins is outstanding.
A leisurely City+ roast works nicely. It's probably sweet enough for espresso, but this sort of wine-like complexity usually doesn't make it into a shot. Like most East African coffees, this one gets darker after the first crack than other origins, so don't panic when you see Full City roast colors as the first crack ends.
This coffee is at least an equal to the superb Rwandas from about 3 to 4 years ago. It takes a string of good years for a newer region like Rwanda to fetch the prices and scores one sees from Kenyas, Yrgacheffes, Panamas, and Huilas. So you can get this one at under $6 per pound, which is a steal.