Jim Schulman often uses this phrase to describe coffees that aren't exactly unpleasant, but that haven't reached their potential in some way. I realized after a while that I'm not certain what he means, but that I think I have an idea.

I think Jim means the flavors are muddled. Nothing in particular stands out. Often I get a pleasant, but unexciting, sweet and malty flavor from blends that are past their prime. I think to myself: "That's what Jim means by 'muddy!'" Do you, Jim?

I use muddy to indicate that the there is a "stewed" flavour (where the flavours are not clearly differentiated and instead are merged into one, undefined, flavour).

To illustrate, find a coffee that, when extracted as espresso, has clearly defined flavours - with a lot of transparency and clarity. It doesn't have to be one you love or anything - just needs to possess these traits.

Now up the dose by 2 grams.

Compare the two shots.

Note: there are a million other ways to create a "muddy" flavour -- and there are of course tons of coffees that simply have this trait inherently. The up-dose trick above is just the easiest way I know of to demonstrate the descriptor.

Thanks, Chris. Sounds like I was on the right track.

I really, really hate to say this; but Chris has stated it perfectly. Who will I disagree with now?

I'm so sorry.
It won't happen again.

Food writer friend Richard Reynolds took my wife and me this weekend to BarBambino in the Mission. Not only is the food in this Italian restaurant extraordinary, but I had an espresso experience that really shook up my personal little coffee world.

BarBambino takes its coffee very seriously. They use Ecco Caffe, pull shots on a Thorpe-modified (PID and more) LM Linea, and have a wait staff that was thoroughly trained by Ecco. I rarely (o.k. never) order espresso in restaurants. But I had Richard's encouragement and the novel experience of seeing a choice of espressos on the menu: "Northern" or "Southern" style.

I chose the Northern. When I tried it, I was stunned, and reached two conclusions. 1. This was the best restaurant espresso I had had in my life; and 2. My home technique (which I had thought was pretty good) needs some reassessment. Our wait person, Becky, brought out flavors in the coffee (which I assume was Ecco Reserve), that are never even hinted at in my home shots.

I'm always telling other people to periodically calibrate their skills at a good coffee shop. I never dreamed it would happen to me at a restaurant. It was a real slap in the face for me. I have never had a "clearer" example of what "clarity" means. Photo of the souped up Linea in the far end of the bar in the 4th photo: http://barbambino.com/place.shtml

[Partly cross-posted to CoffeeGeek.com].